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Discussion Starter #1
Recently got my first road bike a 2014 ninja 300 w/abs. I ve noticed that the clutch lever has a lot of vertical (up and down) play. I have tried tightening the 10 mm and 8mm bolt and lock nut on the lever handle but have had no success in moving either. Do I just accept the vertical clutch play or is there a way I can tighten this down I haven't tried. Its not the cable as I can easily engage the clutch to shift just find it bothersome that the clutch lever moves up and down which I might just accept. Any help is greatly appreciated and thank you.
 

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How many miles are on it? Is it the stock lever? Are you seeing the play out at the end of the lever or at the pivot as well?

Stock the lever will have some play. Cheap Aftermarket levers will usually have more. You can remove the lever and see if the pivot hole is worn.

It's possible to use thin shims to remove some of the slip but in my experience it's not really worth the hassle.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, the bike has less than 6000 miles on it, stock lever. The play is up and down and is all the way the through I was thinking of upgrading the lever but am not able to even remove the lock nut or loosen or tighten it, so it kinda has me baffled. It doesn't really effect my shifting and probably will just leave it since it doesn't seem to cause any problems just triggers my OCD. Also don't want it getting looser and eventually causing problems.
 

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Thanks for the reply, the bike has less than 6000 miles on it, stock lever. The play is up and down and is all the way the through I was thinking of upgrading the lever but am not able to even remove the lock nut or loosen or tighten it, so it kinda has me baffled. It doesn't really effect my shifting and probably will just leave it since it doesn't seem to cause any problems just triggers my OCD. Also don't want it getting looser and eventually causing problems.
Know that many inexpensive aftermarket levers will have the same issue, and some will be worse. Some levers will not activate the clutch safety switch as well.

The higher quality levers should be better, but you may want to check.

I rode my son's VFR yesterday that has an adjustable aftermarket clutch lever on it, and I asked why it was set so far out. He said it won't activate the switch if it's any closer. A stock non-adjustable lever would be better.

You should be able to remove the nut on the bottom and then unscrew the bolt from the top. It's possible you could slip a small washer in the gap before reinstalling the lever to reduce the play. You'd have to make sure the bolt's bushing area easily slid through the opening in the washer.
 

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thats been the main issue is I can't get the lock nut off
Are you holding the top of the bolt with the wrench when you are trying to remove the nut?

It shouldn't have a cotterpin or anything like that, and you should be able to remove it with moderate force.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yes I have a socket wrench on the lock nut and a wrench holding the top and it just spins indefinitely, so not sure if I'm missing something or something is stripped or if it is just really on there. Probably will try again tonight just don't want to make anything worse
 

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If it's just spinning and won't come off then yes the threads are messed up. You can try carefully backing the bolt out as you undo the nut. The bolt is threaded into the lever housing as well as the lock nut. If the bolt gets tight in the housing it's threads are messed up and will likely take the threads in the aluminum housing out with them so be gentle.
 

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If it's just spinning and won't come off then yes the threads are messed up. You can try carefully backing the bolt out as you undo the nut. The bolt is threaded into the lever housing as well as the lock nut. If the bolt gets tight in the housing it's threads are messed up and will likely take the threads in the aluminum housing out with them so be gentle.
That's your best option.

Apply downward pressure on the nut in order to get it to "bite" and hopefully it will come off.

Obviously need a new nut, but may also need the bolt, and have to at least clean-up the threads on the perch if it's threaded (think it is).
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
still no luck getting it off, tried pulling down on the lock nut and up on the bolt but it just spins. Thinking of ordering the entire assembly and replacing it. Might have to cut the bolt off because I can't get it off for the life of me, I tighten the clutch cable and it got a little better or at least the clutch engages at a better point. If I cut the head of the bolt off would I be able to pull it through the bottom or would I have to cut from the lock nut end?:frown2:
Or can I just disconnect the cable and remove the entire assembly with the lever still attached?
 

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I might keep trying to get the nut off. If you clamp the nut very tightly with a vicegrips you may be able to get it to bite.

You can remove the perch assembly to make it easier to work on, or just remove the cable and rotate the assembly so the nut is on the top. If all else fails you can cut the nut and bolt straight down with a small cut-off wheel to get it off. Have the new parts in-hand first. You shouldn't need to replace the entire assembly unless the threads are completely stripped and need an insert or thread repair of some kind.

Depending on the price of the part, it could be cheaper/easier/quicker to just buy a new one than repair it.
 

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Cutting the bolt on either end likely won't help. Since the bolt is threaded directly into the perch it'll still be stuck in there.

Since you can get a used replacement for $10 on eBay I'd just replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)

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how difficult is it going to be to remove the clutch assembly, will I have to remove the grip and everything or can I just remove the one bolt and get the lever off?

also would this part work

https://www.ebay.com/itm/G-KAWASAKI-NINJA-EX-300-B-ABS-2014-OEM-CLUTCH-PERCH-LEVER/111756610765?hash=item1a05368ccd:g:vIQAAOSwMmBV4Lko
I would say yes to the first question. Some mounts have a cap and 2 bolts, but this looks to slide on the bar from the end.

Is that the stock lever on the one you linked? I didn't think they had that style of lever. Not sure if there would be anything different about an ABS and non-ABS assembly - but you never know. Might want to check a parts diagram to see if it's the same part or if they list different part numbers.
 

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I'd look for one with a stock lever. There's no telling what quality that lever is and it might end up looser than what you have now.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok found a stock clutch perch and assembly with lever and all the nuts and bolts, 35$. Should be getting it next week and won't have time until a week after, plan on taking everything off the handle bar and sliding the clutch perch off. Shouldn't be too much work but after tireless attempts trying to get the damn clutch lever off with no success I feel like this is my best option. Just out of curiosity I had a dealership estimate the repair and they said it would be around 400$ which is honestly a crime. Excited for the part to come in as the bolt/lever is pretty loose but still not coming off but does rattle when I get above 45 mph. So needless to say its work that should be done. Will update when I get everything complete. Thanks for the advice everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
got the clutch perch assembly with lever in and was able to get the old one removed and replaced. Feels so much better there is a very small amount of vertical play but it is much tighter and the new bolt isn't stripped. Even after taking the old one off I couldn't get that bolt off felt good to just throw it away. I thought it would be difficult to get the grip off but with a little heat to remove the red loctite from the handle bar weight then using compressed air it was all pretty straight forward and took about 45 minutes. Thanks again everyone
 

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got the clutch perch assembly with lever in and was able to get the old one removed and replaced. Feels so much better there is a very small amount of vertical play but it is much tighter and the new bolt isn't stripped. Even after taking the old one off I couldn't get that bolt off felt good to just throw it away. I thought it would be difficult to get the grip off but with a little heat to remove the red loctite from the handle bar weight then using compressed air it was all pretty straight forward and took about 45 minutes. Thanks again everyone
Good job! I was able to remove the grip with WD40 and sliding something thing between the grip and the metal tube.

On my old 250, I was never able to remove that bar end bolt. :angry:
On the 300, the previous owner had done it for me, installed aftermarket bar ends and replaced the phillips screw with a nice SS allen head bolt.
 
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