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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a smog block off plate in route, probably wont get it until after the holidays.

Just wanted to know if anyone has done this on their 300 yet. I bet there are more components involved unlike on the carbed 250R. The valve is probably electric rather than vacuum operated like on the 250R..

I am doing this because I have a full exhaust system in route and I need to start thinking about options and such.. Auto Tune, Dyno Tune, or just wait for full maps to be released..
 

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keep us posted on how it turns out cbzdel, I'm looking into installing either the juice box pro or the power commander. I'm getting a two bro's full exhaust and have been leaning more towards getting the juice box pro. The power commander does seem a bit more high end and already has the auto tune out. I know how to set up the programmer but am unfamiliar with how the auto tune would need to be set up. An auto tune video would be nice. I'm currently using slower than sh** satellite internet (joys of afghanistan) and dont have the patience/bandwidth to see if anything has been posted on youtube about it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I installed a block of plate today, kinda... i ordered a plate for a 250r and it did not fit.. So i just unplugged to the hose from the head and air box and capped them... Started up the bike and took it for a spin.. Exhaust still popped just as much as before...

No noticeable changes other than the exhaust smell was stronger, which is expected since its less diluted..

If that is the case i might as well just hook it all back up.. Really i wanted to fix my popping exhaust...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No way I didnt block off the crank case vent hahah.. Thats at the bottom of the engine and then vents to the bottom of the airbox.. I removed all the goodies at the top of the engine, that vent from the top of the cylinder head to the airbox.

This system sucks air into the exhaust ports to help burn off unburned gasses..

I get popping only on decelation, I have a M4 full system... I also installed a Area-P tuner.. I was getting the same popping pre and post tuner.. So the tune did not effect the popping..

The reason I went with this most was because of these two threads:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=97700
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9948

Everyone says it got rid of their popping.. This is not the case for me, it did nothing when I removed this system other that make the exhaust more smelly haha...

Any ideas??
 

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I'm going to have to look at it. You know that some engines vent the head to the airbox too, not for emissions, but just as a vent, right? Unless it is pulling fresh air into the exhaust, (KTM used a system known as SAS), it isn't emissions. If it just goes from the valve cover to the airbox I'm suspicious of what it is.

Vents into vacume can also create negative pressure in the cylinder/crank and are used to help the engine produce more power/less pumping losses.

I haven't given it a good look yet so I'm not sure. You take any pics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I didnt take any pics, never think of that when working haha, there are plenty in those threads, but you have to be a member to see them..

Here is a pic I found on google, of the block off plate installed..


Now a hose runs from this to the air box, it pumps fresh air into the exhaust, to reduce emissions..

Everyone in the two links I posted said it eliminates the popping of the exhaust.. Now this is not a crank case vent, this is the emissions system.
 

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OK, I see it on the 2012 OEM parts, a reed valve is on that valve cover. Got it.

Popping can be caused by leaky joints in an exhaust too, or fueling or cam timing. In other words, don't sweat it too much. Mine doesn't do it unless I feed the slightest bit of throttle to it on decel. My race bikes all giver a little in decel too and they are jetted spot on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I have been learning ALOT about this system!! Reading this service manual like crazy trying to figure this out.. Think I got the whole clean air system figured out finally, its actually not much different than the 250R/250R-FI bikes... There is just some extra goodies added around it..

What makes it hard to figure out is that I dont have the tank pulled.. So I am working in very tight conditions!! I just need some spare time to mess around with it a little more and then I should be set...

I will add that the DRIVEN 250R Block Off Plate DOES NOT fit the 300, with a little filing it would fit, but its not a direct install..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
For those wondering here is a pic I cut from the service manual...



As you can see this port is cast into the head and routes down to the exhaust port, all it does is inject "clean air" into the exhaust to reduce emissions..
 

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I think it more "sucks" than injects! On my other bikes the SAS stuff was like an octopus stuck to the side of the engine so it had to go just to be able to work on it. This one being buried under the tank, where I hope to spend very little if any time, isn't an issue for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have the system unhooked as of right now.. I need to pull out all the components next.. The thing I need to deal with is if the valve sensor circuit is left open then you get a warning light.. If doesn't change the ECU though so its just an annoying light that doesn't effect performance.. So I could cut the wires and splice them together, or leave the valve in place and just remove the houses??

Also the Air Intake Pressure Sensor is connected to the valve, or should I say hanging off it as a mounting point.. So that I would have to re-mount or again I could leave the valve in place and keep this sensor in place..

Though call, gut the whole system or just partially...

I think the whole clean air system is stupid to begin with, the bike still puts out the same emissions, injecting "fresh air" into the exhaust is the worst idea ever to lower emissions..
 

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It feeds O2 to the cat to get a better burn as I understand it.

Watch unhooking wires, many times they read resistance so you need to find the value of the component and replace it with a resistor in the wires.
 
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