[Brentos]

Hey guys,
So i have noticed that my chain has a few loose and tight sections and is starting to chew threw my sprockets (which is reasonable after 20,000kms). My question to you is;

What size chain should i order considering I have a 15T on the front and standard on the rear? Ive heard that it should be 520 pitch, but im confused as the the number of links i should get?

Cheers.

 

[my evil twin]

The stock chain will work with a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket.

Stock chain length is 106 links.

"520" means 5/8 inch pitch and 2/8 inch width. Yes, they never metrified chain sizes, why re-invent the wheel?

 

[vanguard_desperado]

Hi! This was helpful.
Will it work if I go to a 40t in the rear?
As in, Will the standard chain still fit with 15t/40t

 

[Phoenix]

What chain would you recommend for stock 14/42 sprockets?
I understand the chain size is 520-106 links but there are so many different kinds out there I'm lost...

I see in older threads people recommend the D.I.D. 520VX2 X-Ring Gold Chain, but from the time of their posts it only costed $70-80. The cheapest I could find now is $115 on Amazon.
I saw another thread recommended the RK Racing O-ring chain which is significantly cheaper ($51) but I can't tell if it uses a clip connector which I hear is very dangerous, and also being that cheap worries me if it'll snap.
Some people buy a 520 chain with 120 links (since its the standard size which tends to be cheaper) and cut it down to 106. I've never replaced a chain so I'd have to buy the appropriate tools.

At the moment I'm thinking of getting this D.I.D. 520VX3 120-Link Gold Chain which is $81 at current posting on Amazon but it comes with a clip master link. So I'm going to have to buy this D.I.D. 520VX3 Gold Rivet Master Link which is $11 at current posting on CycleGear website (found identical price on Revzilla as well btw).

I'll have to cut the 120 link into a 106, which I've never done before. All I have to do is put the old/new chain side by side, count the links to a perfect 106 (or 53 since it counts both sides of the plates, right?) and dremel the off the end of the rivet pins and then punch it through with a chain breaker. After quadruple checking the length, I just wrap the newly cut chain onto the sprockets and attach the master link on the end, with the chain breaker tool. If I got this installation process wrong, please advise.
As for the chain breaker tool I see many on this forum mention the Motion Pro one, it's a hefty $100 though..

 

[Phoenix]

Update:
Got advice from someone else that said I should get a chain and sprocket kit, since its been 9k miles on the same chain.
So now I'm looking at this chain and sprocket kit, it's $150 and its already cut to proper length and comes with a rivet master link:
Vortex V3 WSS Chain And Sprocket Kit Kawasaki Ninja 300 2014-2017
If anyone has any other suggestions I'm going to go with this as my final answer.

 

[Joge]

it uses a clip connector which I hear is very dangerous, and also being that cheap worries me if it'll snap.

It is dangerous only at speeds above something like 200km/h, so no problems with little Ninjas. Just put the locking plate right - the closed head going forward. Of course it is a good idea to check the chain lock for example every time you put oil to the chain. It is also a good starting point in the chain, so you know, when you have oiled it completely.