Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

A few weeks ago I've been noticing a jitter (if that's the correct word for it) when i'm accelerating and decelerating. Instead of a constant acceleration its like taking little steps or pushes as I go faster/slower and its annoying me but more than that's its worrying me.

Its my first bike and i do all the work on her since the service here in Mexico is not to be trusted. So what I think its that, when i first adjusted my chain, i might had adjusted it a bit too tight and so ruining my chain? its that possible?

What i also notice regularly is that the chain loosens too often, around 300 km. Is this normal? and when i try to adjust it, the tight spot its too tight and then the loose spot is too loose. So, should I replace the chain? I got about 15k on the clock.

If I adjusted the chain a bit tight the first time, could this damage the axle from the transmission to the 14T sprocket? has anyone had this problem before?

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
My ninja has about 18k on the clock and the chain is due to be changed as well. The chain being "jittery" and not smooth as you described it, as well as developing tight and loose sections are signs that it needs replacing.

If you are running the stock sprockets, a 520 pitch chain with 108 links will fit. I would also recommend replacing the sprockets when you replace the chain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rodcar125

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
After an initial break in, an O-ring chain will need very little adjustment, the sealed in grease doesn't allow much wear to happen. When the chain starts needing frequent retightening, the sealed in lube is gone because the O-rings have worn out or have been damaged. Accept the fact that the chain's life is over at that point and replace it instead of constantly tightening it to compensate for the wear. It's false economy to try to milk a few thousand more miles out of a chain by using up the chain adjustment range. You end up not only needing a new chain but also new sprockets as well.
If you run a seriously stretched chain, your sprockets will be gone with just one chain. If you replace the chain before it stretches from wear, your sprockets can last the life of the bike. I have personally put over 100,000 miles on a single set of sprockets on my old ZRX1200 and the wear was barely visible, mostly because I went ahead and just replaced my chains at the point in their life where they needed frequent retightening instead of milking a few thousand more miles out of my chains by using up the chain adjustment range.

When wear stretches a chain, its pitch no longer matches the sprocket's pitch and the mismatch causes rapid sprocket wear. A chain that's not stretched causes very little sprocket wear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
My chain on the ninja 300 has a very tight spot as well. I notice the tight spot when the linkage chain is at the very right side of the rear sprocket. I have heard this is a common issue..

I recently adjusted the chain so that it is in spec at this very tight spot , but at other points on the chain, it is very close to touching the swing arm when I move the chain up and down. Is this the same issue you are experiencing rodcar125?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After an initial break in, an O-ring chain will need very little adjustment, the sealed in grease doesn't allow much wear to happen. When the chain starts needing frequent retightening, the sealed in lube is gone because the O-rings have worn out or have been damaged. Accept the fact that the chain's life is over at that point and replace it instead of constantly tightening it to compensate for the wear. It's false economy to try to milk a few thousand more miles out of a chain by using up the chain adjustment range. You end up not only needing a new chain but also new sprockets as well.
If you run a seriously stretched chain, your sprockets will be gone with just one chain. If you replace the chain before it stretches from wear, your sprockets can last the life of the bike. I have personally put over 100,000 miles on a single set of sprockets on my old ZRX1200 and the wear was barely visible, mostly because I went ahead and just replaced my chains at the point in their life where they needed frequent retightening instead of milking a few thousand more miles out of my chains by using up the chain adjustment range.

When wear stretches a chain, its pitch no longer matches the sprocket's pitch and the mismatch causes rapid sprocket wear. A chain that's not stretched causes very little sprocket wear.
Awesome a set of sprockets can last that long with the proper care! Since im new in all this i just thought i could keep adjusting it. So, how do i tell when do i need to change my chain? certain number of adjusts? certain number of mi/km? I guess ill be changing chain and sprockets this time and be more careful next time.

Also, is there any need to compress the suspension when doing the chain adjustment or is it ok to do it on a rear stand?



My chain on the ninja 300 has a very tight spot as well. I notice the tight spot when the linkage chain is at the very right side of the rear sprocket. I have heard this is a common issue..

I recently adjusted the chain so that it is in spec at this very tight spot , but at other points on the chain, it is very close to touching the swing arm when I move the chain up and down. Is this the same issue you are experiencing rodcar125?
Thats exactly right. Well within spec on the tight spot and just about touching or even touching the swing arm at the loose spot. Guess youll be needing chain replacement as well :D



So, whats a good brand for chains/sprockets???

Thanks a lot everyone!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
458 Posts
Awesome a set of sprockets can last that long with the proper care! Since im new in all this i just thought i could keep adjusting it. So, how do i tell when do i need to change my chain? certain number of adjusts? certain number of mi/km? I guess ill be changing chain and sprockets this time and be more careful next time.

Also, is there any need to compress the suspension when doing the chain adjustment or is it ok to do it on a rear stand.

I replace when the chain starts needing weekly adjustments to stay in spec. Rapid chain stretch is the chain telling you that the sealed in lube is no longer there. Other signals are "the red powder of death" on chain links, that's fretting corrosion from the inside of the chain getting past the hardened and worn out O-rings and depositing itself on the outside of the chain. The O-rings on some links will go out before the O-rings on other links and that's why you get uneven chain stretch with varying chain tightness on an old chain.

A good chain seldom needs adjusting, and only very minor adjustments at that. When it starts needing frequent and large adjustments, replace it before it eats up your sprockets, even if you have lots of adjustment left on your chain tensioner adjustment screws.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,368 Posts
I've heard vortex products are short lived..


another thing people look for is wear on the sprockets, when the pitch of the pockets change or start to get etched out it's time for a new set of sprockets, and you should change both at the same time. worn out sprockets will prematurely wear a chain and vise versa.. it's more expensive initially to change both but saves you money in the long run..
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top