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I have never bled brakes in my life, never needed to.. The last time I had lines replaced on my old bike it was in for warranty service and I just asked them to do it for me.

But I just got my SS lines from Hard Racing so I was watching videos on how to bleed the brakes as so on.. I would rather not but a fancy tool I would never use again..

To anyone that had done this before what do you think of this CHEAP tool??

http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man-brake-bleeder-kit-37201.html

One Person Brake Bleeder Kit - $4.99
 

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I have NEVER used a special tool to bleed the lines.. I just unscrew one end of the line enough to let air and brake fluid pass through and pump the brakes, do that a few times. till your brakes are firm like they should be, and not squishy. When I did it on my car, I had to bleed it about 4 times, my buddies truck, i needed to bleed it 6 times. Seems to increase with the volume of the break lines and reservoir, so I would assume the bike you dont need to bleed more than twice. But liek it said, just do it till it doesnt feel squishy.
 

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Looks inexpensive enuff, but no mention of a check valve to keep air from getting back into your lines.

A bit more money, but we sell a Ton of the new Motion Pro Mini Bleeders.
Neat and tidy, a true one man bleed system.




 

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IMO, a tool is pretty much unnecessary with bikes. All they do is provide a one-way valve to prevent air from re-entering the system when the brake lever is released. This is [somewhat] necessary on cars because you can't close the bleeder valve between each pump. On a bike, everything is in arms reach.

1. Open the bleeder
2. Squeeze the brakes
3. Close the bleeder
4. Release the brakes

Rinse and repeat.
 

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And a friend helping you or a wife or w/e you have at your disposal makes it easier, on both cars and bikes lol they just need to squeeze the brake for you, while you get your hands dirty
 

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Exactly, the old adage certainly applies to bleeding brakes... Spend Time to Save Money (bleeding w/ clear hose and an old soda bottle with some help) or Spend Money to Save Time ( one of the nifty gadgets). Either way you get it done, brake lines will be a tremendous upgrade.

.
 

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Any DOT 4 is good ( from a sealed container of course) but as most our bikes hit the track, we use Motul RBF600...


.
 

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no need for a special brake bleeder tool. goto your nearest pharmacy and buy a 25cc syringe.

this is about the biggest you can buy that has a decent tip on the end to attach a rubber hose to with a zip tie. attach the other end of the hose, about 2 inches (5 centimeters) is all you need. attach one end of the hose to the bleeder nipple and other end to syringe and open bleeder and then draw back on syringe.then close bleeder and empty syringe. repeat.watch fluid reservoir.when it drops, add some more in, dont recycle your brake fluid

one of these syringes i bought locally for just 95cents and works a treat
 

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no need for a special brake bleeder tool. goto your nearest pharmacy and buy a 25cc syringe.

this is about the biggest you can buy that has a decent tip on the end to attach a rubber hose to with a zip tie. attach the other end of the hose, about 2 inches (5 centimeters) is all you need. attach one end of the hose to the bleeder nipple and other end to syringe and open bleeder and then draw back on syringe.then close bleeder and empty syringe. repeat.watch fluid reservoir.when it drops, add some more in, dont recycle your brake fluid

one of these syringes i bought locally for just 95cents and works a treat
Unless you're trying to empty the system (which you want to do when replacing the lines).
 

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Why DOT 4? Maybe a silly question. Sorry.
Higher boiling point. When brake fluid boils, it becomes more compressible, meaning energy is lost in the fluid. The higher the boiling point, the more heat the system can take and the more aggressively you can brake.

Under typical street riding, DOT 3 is usually enough. With that said, the cost difference is negligible. If doing any track days, you should replace your fluid with DOT 4 or DOT 5.1.

For reference, DOT 3 fluid has a boiling point of 205°C. Motul RBF600 DOT 4 fluid has a boiling point of 312°C.
 

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Higher boiling point. When brake fluid boils, it becomes more compressible, meaning energy is lost in the fluid. The higher the boiling point, the more heat the system can take and the more aggressively you can brake.

Under typical street riding, DOT 3 is usually enough. With that said, the cost difference is negligible. If doing any track days, you should replace your fluid with DOT 4 or DOT 5.

For reference, DOT 3 fluid has a boiling point of 205°C. Motul RBF600 DOT 4 fluid has a boiling point of 312°C.
If you are going to replace your fluid with DOT 5 make sure you completely flush your brake system otherwise you'll end up having issues. You may mean DOT 5.1, which doesn't require it to be flushed.

from wikipedia "Using DOT 5 in a DOT 3 or DOT 4 system without proper flushing will cause damage to the seals and cause brake failure. DOT 5 brake fluid is not compatible with anti-lock brake systems. DOT 5 brake fluid absorbs a small amount of air requiring care when bleeding the system of air."
 

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My brake lever has achieved the squishyness so I think I'm going to just empty the system and change to the dot 4. Can I just get brake fluid from my local auto parts store or is there a difference between car brake fluid vs bike?
 

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My brake lever has achieved the squishyness so I think I'm going to just empty the system and change to the dot 4. Can I just get brake fluid from my local auto parts store or is there a difference between car brake fluid vs bike?
No difference. Brake fluid is brake fluid.

Some brands have better properties than others though. I personally use Motul, which you don't normally find at Auto Zone, etc.
 

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My brake lever has achieved the squishyness so I think I'm going to just empty the system and change to the dot 4. Can I just get brake fluid from my local auto parts store or is there a difference between car brake fluid vs bike?
Squishiness is from the stock lines. Not the fluid.
 
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