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So I'm in a similar boat. I have a 2014 Ninja 300 ABS with a damaged ignition.

I bought an ignition on eBay for $30 and unplugged the existing ignition. I took the new ignition and got it to the point where I can just plug in the new ignition wire and get my bike to turn on.

However, when I start the bike - it's in neutral, engine oil light on (expected), ABS light on (expected?) - it cranks but doesn't start the engine. I see the CEL light blink but I don't see any codes.

Any idea of what might be wrong? I'm guessing it's not the ignition switch since the bike turns the electrical system on.

My steering wheel is still locked - could that be why?
 

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So I'm in a similar boat. I have a 2014 Ninja 300 ABS with a damaged ignition.

I bought an ignition on eBay for $30 and unplugged the existing ignition. I took the new ignition and got it to the point where I can just plug in the new ignition wire and get my bike to turn on.

However, when I start the bike - it's in neutral, engine oil light on (expected), ABS light on (expected?) - it cranks but doesn't start the engine. I see the CEL light blink but I don't see any codes.

Any idea of what might be wrong? I'm guessing it's not the ignition switch since the bike turns the electrical system on.

My steering wheel is still locked - could that be why?
Maybe it's because your seat belt isn't buckled.
 

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I don't see how you can turn the key to on and still have locked handlebars.

Did you buy an aftermarket or oem ignition?. That's important to know. Only oem works, not cheap, Chinese aftermarket. The Chinese one can turn the motor but the computer will prevent it from turning on because the cheap ignition doesn't have a resistor in it that drops the voltage to 9 volts telling the computer that the bike isn't being hot wired.

Has the bike been dropped? If so, then you have to reset your bank angle sensor by flipping your red kill switch off and on.

Is the kick stand switch connected and wires intact?
 

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I don't see how you can turn the key to on and still have locked handlebars.
The original ignition hasn't be unbolted off the triple clamp. It's just been disconnected.

Did you buy an aftermarket or oem ignition?. That's important to know. Only oem works, not cheap, Chinese aftermarket. The Chinese one can turn the motor but the computer will prevent it from turning on because the cheap ignition doesn't have a resistor in it that drops the voltage to 9 volts telling the computer that the bike isn't being hot wired.
Yes, I bought an after market one. Specifically, the one at http://www.ebay.com/itm/271986613193?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT.

Do you know what resistor size I would have to get? I'm hoping to just get my bike started so I can get it to a shop or something.

Any good online shops that you recommend for getting the OEM ignition?

Has the bike been dropped? If so, then you have to reset your bank angle sensor by flipping your red kill switch off and on.

Is the kick stand switch connected and wires intact?
I've dropped it once before but it's started fine for a bunch times afterwards so I'm guessing that's not the issue. When it did happen, I did have to flip the kill switch off and on.

Yes, the kick stand switch is connected and intact.
 

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I don't know the resistor size but it drops the voltage from 12 volts to a 9 or 10 volts, most likely 9. You might be able to tell that to the electronics shop worker and they may he able to recommend a proper resistor. You'll have to look for online pics of the ignition switch taken apart to see which wire has its voltage dropped.

Don't know of an online shop but you can find it on ebay used or maybe some other website. You just have to make sure it was from a working ninja 300 or 250.
 

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I uploaded photos at http://imgur.com/a/qYmdc of my attempt to hotwire my bike using an ignition I bought on eBay.

The first picture is the wiring and end piece from the bike. The second picture is the device that I used to trigger the connections if you "turn the key".

I'm probably going to see if I can find a resistor to somehow make this work while I try to get a new ignition.
 

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Yeah, that's not going to work. The oem ignition has the resistor soldered between two of those points on the first pic you provided.

Unless you just want to take on the challenge of making somwthing work, you're going through a lot of hassle when you should be looking for a used one. I'm sure they're all over the internet. Vulgr said a ninja 250 ignition works as well.
 

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If it's just soldered in between the two points of the first picture - in theory, I can just take that piece from my OEM ignition and screw my new ignition to that, right?

My OEM ignition most likely has broken cylinders since the key won't turn.
 

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Calculating the resistor is easy if you know what the current is. FYI, the equation you need will be Voltage=-(current*resistance). If we solve for resistance we get resistance=-Voltage/current. Get a multi-meter, put it on the 10A circuit mode and check the current with the bike on going to the ignition. Use 9V as the target voltage and it'll give you what resistor you'd need to buy to make 9V happen. Btw, when you test for current, you need to test the system IN SERIES, which usually entails disconnecting some part of the circuit to get your multi-meter into series connection to the circuit. Most people when they hotwire an ignition, make sure to short the wires AFTER the resistor and generally don't cut or splice BEFORE the resistor in order to keep the resistor in line with the hotwire. Since you said your stock ignition is still kicking around, you should be able to find what resistor it is by removing the resistor from the stock ignition and reading it's resistance on the casing.
 

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If it's just soldered in between the two points of the first picture - in theory, I can just take that piece from my OEM ignition and screw my new ignition to that, right?

My OEM ignition most likely has broken cylinders since the key won't turn.
It's definitely possible. I've done it before.
 

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So the ignition that I did buy does have a resistor that looks like it connects to the gray wire to the brown and green wires. I think it's a 330 ohm resistor based off of the colors (brow, black, black, orange, orange) but I'm not sure. Pictures coming.

Picture: http://imgur.com/IcGuKpC
 

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To me it looks brown, black, black, gold, orange. Probably 10 ohms, 5% tolerance. The last band is something new to me--TCR, which would be 15ppm. "Temperature Coefficient of Resistance (TCR) is the relative change of resistance value due solely to either the cooling or heating of the resistor." http://www.vishay.com/resistors/change-resistance-due-to-rtc-calculator/
 

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Made multiple corrections to how I read the resistor code. Just try measuring it with an ohm meter. That extra band threw me for a loop!
 
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