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2015 ninja 300 ticking and barely moving .
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Bike started ticking and has very low power then will just shut off if i try to move
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It had low power. But then yes,of I try to get it going it shut stalls and shuts off at this point .I got the bike at like 9 thousand miles .now has like 13 and some change. I've never done any work on the Motor and have no idea of prior maintenance
It's also possible the sound is from the clutch.
See if you can isolate the area where the sound is coming from. The clutch should be pretty obvious vs valvetrain. I think I do recall another thread with a similar problem that was clutch-related. Would make sense if it doesn't move.
I would also check the valves at some point.
EDIT: Oil level is good, and hasn't been run low?
See if you can isolate the area where the sound is coming from. The clutch should be pretty obvious vs valvetrain. I think I do recall another thread with a similar problem that was clutch-related. Would make sense if it doesn't move.
I would also check the valves at some point.
EDIT: Oil level is good, and hasn't been run low?
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Well .after all that happened I checked the oil level thru the indicated spot seemed bone dry.so I drained it and maybe 3 4th of a quart came out .did a puke change and bike did it all over again .before the oil change it moved. After it moved. Then just stopped. So if I let off clutch it dies I've tried to isolate the sound using a long screwdriver method and honestly can't. It might seem like it's coming from the top end but it could just be tricking me
84' Goldwing Aspencade, 91' EX500, 98' Ninja 250 w/ 17' 300 engine, 07 EX500
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Personally I think the motor is toast, that low on oil, for that long isn't good for it.
The two common causes for engine failure on these small parallel twins is, low oil, and low coolant ie overheating. Due to the fact the engine does not require a lot of any one of those
The two common causes for engine failure on these small parallel twins is, low oil, and low coolant ie overheating. Due to the fact the engine does not require a lot of any one of those
What did the oil look like?
Did you see any metallic pieces or bronze-colored flakes?
Doesn't sound too good at this point, unfortunately.
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Honestly, I didn't even think to check because as soon as I was draining the ouk my landlord pulled in lol .and oil was everywhere cause I didnt have an oil drain pan do I dumped the shit in the parking lot.i dont know .thing muggt be fucked at this point .I just didnt know these bikes burn thru oil.i did an oil change about 3 thousand miles ago on it and disnt even think to check the level
The little Ninjas will use some oil.
When running high RPMs, it will draw some oil through the crankcase breather into the airbox. High temps and old/broken-down oil will make it use more.
Most of the small cycle engines don't hold much oil, and cruise at high RPMs, so it's best to keep a close eye on the level and use a quality synthetic oil.
When running high RPMs, it will draw some oil through the crankcase breather into the airbox. High temps and old/broken-down oil will make it use more.
Most of the small cycle engines don't hold much oil, and cruise at high RPMs, so it's best to keep a close eye on the level and use a quality synthetic oil.
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I used synthetic. I think it was a decent brand .idk..never worked on a bike motor so wouldn't know where to start to see what's wrong .I know some things about car motors but
You could start by removing the round cap on the left engine cover and spinning the engine over with a socket/ratchet on the nut/bolt on the end of the crank. Pretty sure you will want to spin it counterclockwise. See how much effort it requires.
You can also pull the spark plugs out to make it easier to spin and get a better feel for how much force is required. With the plugs out it should spin pretty easily, with a few points where there is additional resistance - but you shouldn't have to use much force.
Looking for bronze flakes in the oil is usually the easiest way to know if the bearings are toast.
Removing the valve cover and looking at the cams for galling would also tell you.
Next step is significant disassembly.
You can also pull the spark plugs out to make it easier to spin and get a better feel for how much force is required. With the plugs out it should spin pretty easily, with a few points where there is additional resistance - but you shouldn't have to use much force.
Looking for bronze flakes in the oil is usually the easiest way to know if the bearings are toast.
Removing the valve cover and looking at the cams for galling would also tell you.
Next step is significant disassembly.
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The sound seems like its comng from the top end .like the valves need delt with.
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