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Discussion Starter #1
I just recently decatted my stock header and installed a area p tuner with the correct
Maps but have two questions.
1 does decatting the stock pipes make your fumes smelly? I'm constantly smelling this bad fumey smell whenever I'm riding and 2 although the power increase is awesome Should I be guzzling that much more petrol? It's definately a lot more then I used to


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From what I've heard it will change the exhaust smell depending on which tune your using. And also depending on what tune you will use more gas as well. Although I don't know what difference you are seeing or what is the norm.
 

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this is interesting.Im getting ready to decat mine.So it has good performance but bad fuel mileage ?What about any engine lights staying on after the decat?
 

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Having no catalytic converter, or "cat" will give the exhaust that smell you're speaking of..
 

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My MPG are about the same "if" I can resist screaming it everywhere, then it goes down but very slightly. I don't get the odor but I ride off road bikes all the time, probably just used to it.
 

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Since our 300's don't have an O2 sensor to begin with I don't think de-catting the exhaust is going to throw an engine code. If that was true, all the full exhaust systems currently out would.

If your mileage has gone really south and you are getting a rich fuel smell you might want to try a less thirsty map. Maybe you should download a PCV map for just a slip-on and convert it for use with your Area P Fuel Moto FI programmer?
 

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Sounds like there is a bad map loaded, or worse a bad connection with one of the Area P connections. As much of a pain in the ass it will be you might want to double check your connections for position (color code), no cut wires, and plugs fully seated. If all that checks out it could be a bad controller as no one else has reported like issues with their Area P setups thus far. Sometimes you just get a bad device. Let us know what you find.
 

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There is a way to fine tune the maps via on the unit controls, I havent done this yet but I think old3 has so he may be able to shed more light on this if willing to post how he went?
 

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By adding a FI controller most folks are looking for a little more power. To get more power, you are going to have to burn more fuel, the amount will stun you at first. If driven economically this bike is supposed to produce 70-ish miles per gallon, but who drives economically? By adding a tuner you can control your air/fuel mixture alot better and after adding a full exhaust and removing the factory air and adding a bigger air induction system you will need to control the mixtures because the little computer on the bike cannot do it alone. So in the end its always going to be a trade off, more power, more fuel, its really that simple.
P.S. I thought the PC5 had a switchable 3 map controller? economic/regular/race or was that just the one for cruisers?
 

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Yes, just like in old cars, a cat does help with the smell... But why are you standing there smelling your exhaust, get on the bike and ride it, the exhaust points behind you so under normal conditions you would never smell it on the bike.

And yes its going to use slightly more gas as you are increasing you A:F, but that does not always mean worse MPG as it does make the engine more efficient.. There are actually times you can increase you A:F and get better MPG. Not sure what "guzzle" means to you but if should not be much different unless you are hammering on it which 99% of people do after installing performance parts.

You would know if you were running to rich the bike would run worse that before.. Some something you may want to double check is that the fine tune adjustment knobs are all set to zero.

Or if you are really concerned, contact Area-P, as we all know they customer service is awesome, and they WANT to help you make it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
After a bit more riding I've noted you're probably right I have been hammering around. And as for the smell for some reason I can smell it whenever I'm at a standstill or crawling which is a but irritating but I suppose ill get use to it. Another problem which I've emailed area p about is the backfiring upon deceleration. Even though my power has increased It seems to be worse then before


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You need to remove your clean air system, I have a post about it.. Get yourself some plugs or a SSR block off plate :D
 

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subscribing-wanting to know the answer to the block off plate as well.

The 250 plate fits the 300 I am assuming?
 

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so do you just put on block of plate or do you have to do something else?like cut wires or remove anything?Im asking about stopping the backfiring. thanks
 

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Decel popping is caused by un-burnt fuel left in the cylinder and explodes out the exhaust port(s). When you introduce more fueling into the engine, i.e. add-in fuel enrichment override controller (Fuel Moto from Area P). You are putting more fuel into the engine that is not being directly controlled by the factory computer. This is all fine and dandy during acceleration when the injectors are spraying and the throttle position sensors (TPS) are registering a positive opening the engine keeps firing spark. The problem with decel is the factory computer doesn't no there is unspent extra fuel in the cylinders and stops the spark from firing to burn this excess fuel. So the fuel just pushes out with the exhaust gas and explodes on the way out. This is decel popping you are hearing.

What tuners try and do is just release the right amount of fuel into the engine to create the most bang at the right time. Fine tuning it throughout the entire rpm range. Given the high rpms motorcycles can make it is harder to stop the excess fueling when the throttle is closed. If you close your throttle very slowly from the upper rpm range you don't get popping coming down. Shut the throttle off when the engine is making 50% or more rpms and you get extra fuel that is not being burned away inside the cylinder.

Higher compression engines that make more cylinder pressure adds to this effect as well. The only cure is to reduce extra fuel override (reduced power) or replace the main ECU with a re-tuned one that controls fuel burning directly.
 
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