[TBR300]

Hi guys, I finished my first track day last weekend and am looking for input on some performance upgrades.

The stock clutch is not holding well after up-shifts and I don't know what would be best for a stronger grab. Heavier springs? Grippier plates?

The cockpit on the 300 is really too small for me and I want to extend the seat area back at least 3 inches. I'm thinking of modding a hotbodies tail section and adding a seat plate and a longer flat foam seat. If there are commercially available race seat options I'd love to see them.

Brakes: I've got Speigler stainless on the front with ebc pads but the rest is bone stock. I need some more brake power to be lighter on the controls. What would the best complete set up, rotor, pads, caliper, master, and everything?

And finally, I messed up the a/f ratio with a pod filter and open glass-pack thinking I had a closed circuit ecu. It stumbled at 8K and then 10.5 as I taped off the air filter to make it ridable. What is best to fix the fuel delivery? Ecu Flash? Piggy back unit? I only use 10-13K once off the grid and would like to optimize that range. If raising the rev limit is advisable I'd like an extra 500 to a grand to keep max power in the middle of my needed rev band.

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[SparkyMJ]

Right on with the first track day on the 300!

Hmm, as for the clutch, when I got my 300, it would slip on upshifts at redline too, due to the previous owners learning to ride and just crushing the clutch. So I bought all new steels and plates, and I think I put the EBC springs in that are 15% stiffer or so. Not a slip since, and that was like almost 30,000 miles ago and many track days ago. It won't change the mushy lever feel of the clutch on this bike or smooth it out any more, but it does grab and work as it should. I'm pretty easy on my clutches too, so they tend to last just about forever.

I haven't messed with the seating, but especially if you're taller, raising the seat a hair might help, whichever way you go with track fairings or stock seat. It would pair well with race rearsets increased height.

As for brakes. I am pretty heavy on hard late braking, so with the stock brake setup and any standard HH pads, I actually got them all so hot they would spider-web shatter the pads, and start squealing coming into the pits. I religiously rebuild my calipers too, so I had no mechanical issues. So I got fed up with that, and got the stainless speigler lines, a Galfer wave rotor, and EBC EPFA (half track half street) pads, and a Brembo 15RCS. Absolutely life changing. The 15RCS is a tad big for the stock caliper, so I may actually get the Brembo caliper made to match the 15, but if you are planning on using the stock caliper (which isn't bad, but the lever feedback isn't as good as the brembo calipers) you want a radial 14mm master cylinder. At least my 15RCS paired with the EPFA pads, they have so much bite that it really makes up for the lost hydraulic leverage due to me using too big a master slightly. I can stop so much harder and later, and usually out-brake just about anyone else in group B on track with that setup. If I had the Brembo caliper I think my brake game would be top notch. Highly recommend those or similar parts for this single rotor setup. On rear, I just run EBC organic brake pads. The 300 has a ton of brake power for the rear, honestly a bit much in my opinion, so I put organic pads to dampen out the bite so I don't lock it up as easily.

As for A/F, go back to stock dude. You'll have a better time. Stock airbox, and if you really want to squeeze out a hair more power, the ECU flash and/or dyno tune from a good shop will help. Although, I am in the camp that with this little power, gaining a few hp with the ECU flash and tune would be cool, but it just works, and that extra couple hp isn't going to make my track day experience that much better, so I have left my motor/air/exhaust all stock, and it runs like a top. To me, not much point in making this little motor try and scream out a hair more power.

So in my opinion, the game changers for me have been brakes and thicker fork oil, and max preload on the rear shock. I may do the GSX-R shock mod, but we'll see what projects I want to take on this season. If you weigh more than 160lbs with no gear, you probably need stiffer springs and whatnot. I am very light, so the stock suspension is actually not too bad for me.

Hope this helps. It's a great bike for track, and I think it'll be my go-to for rain days. Soft and supple suspension paired with not too much power is perfect for rain days, I've got my knee down on road DOT tires in the rain, as per my profile pic lol.

Glad to hear you're wanting to take the bike to the next level!

-Mike

 

[TBR300]

Thanks for all. I'm not chasing more power but got into the bad habit of pod intake and re-jetting every vehicle I touch which was definitely not worked out in this case. I'm 230# with all gear and breakfast so the front supension will need a little work. That brake set-up sounds pretty sweet. I started riding scooters with a lever rear brake so I never got in to the habit of using rear brake on the motorcycles. Do you think its important to learn?

My bike was a salvage build and sold atleast once a summer for a few years on the same title so I assume the clutch was crudely used. I only clutch 1st to second so a rebuild sounds like it should work. Thanks again for the input. lets see what can get done before JenningsGP next sunday.

 

[SparkyMJ]

Right on. I think yeah you would love the brake setup and wonder how you did anything without it once you get it on there. And yeah I bet the thicker fork oil (I think 10 is stock, I went 15 or 5 more wt up from stock) and it was wonderful. I bet if you paired that with a higher rate spring you'd be golden. Might as well while you're in there.

On these smaller bikes with single-rotor brakes up front, I find the rear brake pretty valuable. Even with my setup, I think it would be quite difficult to stoppie or apply such extreme brake force, so the rear brake does really help add to the stopping power, especially on a technical track. My home track has a few downhill hard braking zones, and I really benefit from using both brakes when I first close the throttle and go to slow down. Helps set up my trail braking in after downshifting. So yeah I would invest some time in playing with it. If you don't have ABS, just don't be too greedy with it and you'll be fine.

As for clutchless shifting, I stopped doing it after I permanently wore my shift dogs on some gears. The 300 is prone to pop out of gear once you've worn the transmission down enough, many racers have this issue pretty severely. That is why companies like Spears do back-cut services on the 300 transmission. That said though, if you're not popping out of gears now, I would take it easy on the transmission/clutch on these bikes. I noticeably and permanently wore down my transmission doing clutchless stuff, so I stopped. My bike has 57,000 miles on it now, and I am still pretty easy on the clutch and transmission, mostly just due to my bikes mileage.

Up to you how you want to use the bike, but I decided my throttle hand wasn't precise enough to make every shift every time, and a transmission rebuild might not be worth my time and money. Maybe you'd have more fun with a quickshifter unit on yours if you want that capability!

Just gotta decide what is worth your time and money. I figured on these small bikes, engine mods aren't what's gonna make or break the fun. The fun for me is the higher cornering speed and late braking, and making people mad I only have 39hp lol.

Hope this helps, have fun at Jennings!

-Mike

 

[Toe Cutter]

For the front suspension, I would check out racetechs site they have recommendations for springs and what weight oil to use.

 

[TBR300]

For the front suspension, I would check out racetechs site they have recommendations for springs and what weight oil to use.

Thanks, I'll check them out. I've used their recommendations before on a race scrambler project.

 

[Frank]

I run the EPFA pads with stock master and caliper but stainless steel lines. I had to install backcut gears as mine was so worn it was constantly jumping out of fifth gear back into fourth which wasn't helping anything. My big chassis mod this winter was tapered steering head bearings.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

 

[TBR300]

I run the EPFA pads with stock master and caliper but stainless steel lines. I had to install backcut gears as mine was so worn it was constantly jumping out of fifth gear back into fourth which wasn't helping anything. My big chassis mod this winter was tapered steering head bearings.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
[/QUOTE

I run the EPFA pads with stock master and caliper but stainless steel lines. I had to install backcut gears as mine was so worn it was constantly jumping out of fifth gear back into fourth which wasn't helping anything. My big chassis mod this winter was tapered steering head bearings.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

I've got to change the stem bearing. Hoping it will smooth and steady the front some.