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Discussion Starter #1
How about a sticky thread for break in procedure? This is easily one of the most burning new owner questions and the Kawasaki recommendation is so poor. Every time the old thread scrolls off someone starts a new one and then someone knowledgeable has to take the time to answer.

I think the first post should include a link to this accurate and detailed explanation of the process: http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm (or maybe just copy the whole article).

A summary would be good for the less technically inclined newbie. I can write it up.
 

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If you would like, all this info has been said before though, a quick search on the forum brings bounds of info already on it.

starting another thread is kind of a waste. especially because new people usually dont use the search feature as much or as effectively as they could, or are not willing to read, so they start another new thread, and ask their question, then it gets answered or directed to an established thread and issue is resolved.

Now if the admins would like to let you type up all the proper info on one post, then delete the older posts entirely so your is the only one shat shows up when they search, that I would endorse.

=D
 

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If you would like, all this info has been said before though, a quick search on the forum brings bounds of info already on it.

starting another thread is kind of a waste. especially because new people usually dont use the search feature as much or as effectively as they could, or are not willing to read, so they start another new thread, and ask their question, then it gets answered or directed to an established thread and issue is resolved.

Now if the admins would like to let you type up all the proper info on one post, then delete the older posts entirely so your is the only one shat shows up when they search, that I would endorse.

=D

Unfortunetly users like myself are using the mobile version and there is no search :(
Ive looked and looked but no sucess :mad:
 

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I dont think we need a sticky saying that the owners manual is wrong, North Texas Norton Owners Association knows what we should be doing haha..

Break in period and exhaust will always be the most talked about subjects, its always been like that and probably always will be like that..

Break in is a big debate, its a 50/50 thing no one will ever win regardless, so I see no need for a sticky, personally, if another mod or the admin sees the need then that is fine with me..

A sticky on break in will end up like every other break in thread, it will turn into a huge debate and then a new thread will be posted because the new member doesn't want to read through the entire thing and will want a summary..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think my summary would give the three basic choices that are discussed over and over again:
1. Follow the Kawasaki recommendations to a T.
2. Ride it like you stole it and don't do anything special for break in.
3. Enhanced riding it like you stole it according to the principals in the link I included.

I've built a few engines with cast iron liners and had good experience with break-ins on those. Plus I've done a lot of reading about engine design for tuning my race bike. I did some searching about plated aluminum and it seems that they are honed the same and the principals of break in are the same as iron. So even if the information in that link is aimed at Norton owners the detailed explanation applies to us, too.

But I can't find anything specific for "T-treatment". Maybe the place I should look is here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buzzword
 

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But I can't find anything specific for "T-treatment". Maybe the place I should look is here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buzzword
Not sure what you mean by that..

As for the break in thead, go ahead and put one together and if the members like it we can sticky it.. I thought you wanted us to just make that link to Norton a sticky and say do this haha.... But if you are outlining options that could be a good idea..
 

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I posted this elsewhere but this is how I break-in my engines (used to race 2-strokes):

Phase 1: Take it easy (under 6k rpm) for about half a tank. Go through all the gears and the entire rpm range (2-6k? Don't lug the engine!) Just baby it in 20-minute cycles and avoid letting the bike idle for extended periods of time.

Phase 2: Make sure the engine is warm then do some hard acceleration to seat the rings then let off the throttle fully and engine brake from high RPM to seat the rings the other way. The focus should be on making big rpm sweeps, in its tallest gears—operating the engine to the peak of its performance level, for little bursts of time. How long this takes, is up to you.

Phase 3: Oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The engine specs say: "New sleeveless “open-deck” die-cast aluminum cylinders are 800 grams lighter and feature a friction-reducing “T-treatment” plating". So I searched around for more information on T-treatment and found nothing, that's why I'm calling it a buzzword. But all the cylinder plating methods that I did find seem to produce a similar result, at least as far as break in is concerned.
 

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How about a sticky thread for break in procedure? This is easily one of the most burning new owner questions and the Kawasaki recommendation is so poor. Every time the old thread scrolls off someone starts a new one and then someone knowledgeable has to take the time to answer.

I think the first post should include a link to this accurate and detailed explanation of the process: http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm (or maybe just copy the whole article).
This is a very good article, and after reading this, I've decided to keep my engine under 7000 rpm for the first 300 miles, then increase that limit by 1000 rpm (in short burst only) every 300 miles. By the time I'm at 2100 miles, I will be at the 13000 rpm redline. As far as sustained high rpm, I cruise at 60 mph at 6000 to 7000 rpm, so I don't really see many situations that would require sustained rpm's much higher than that.
 

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I remember reading a quote that has stuck with me pretty well. Pretty much stated that Kawasaki builds the bike, why wouldn't you listen to them? Sure... maybe a different break in will get you a few more horses, but do you want more power now or longevity down the road?
 

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I remember reading a quote that has stuck with me pretty well. Pretty much stated that Kawasaki builds the bike, why wouldn't you listen to them? Sure... maybe a different break in will get you a few more horses, but do you want more power now or longevity down the road?
I know what your saying, but I also think that Kawasaki as a company also has other considerations, like liability of their product (bikes that are under warranty). So it makes sense that they would give an extremely simple brake in procedure with no risk, as opposed to a much more complex procedure that may be better. Time will tell if my choice is ill advised :D
 
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