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84 Goldwing Aspencade, 91 EX500, 98 Ninja 250/17 300 engine swap, 07 EX500
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anybody know, or can recommend an aftermarket countershaft nut, maybe titanium or stainless steel?
 

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1000%.
There has never been so much swearing in my garage, and in other shops due to this cursed part. It's literally the only job I genuinely hate doing on this bike and I absolutely loathe the day that I have to replace my sprockets again.

The nut itself is like 20 bucks or something ridiculous because it has the speedo sensor square profile. It's made of some soft material that not only manages to self-tighten onto the CS, but also somehow manages to gall out or somehow otherwise fuse itself to the CS.

No amount of breaker bars and torches made it budge in my garage. No amount of rattling it with a full size impact gun and torch heating made it even budge in the 2 professional shops I took it to.

My only solution was to literally dremel cut the nut off in 3 pieces. And in doing so, no matter how careful I was, I damaged the CS a little bit with the cutting wheel. And even with the nut cut multiple times, I still had to hammer the nut fragments off the shaft because the threads had molded together.

I have concluded that I will likely just need to cut it off every single sprocket change. I used anti-seize and put exactly the torque spec on it this time, (which the previous owner did not do) so hopefully this won't literally be the worst job of the year when it comes around.

Even more salty about this because my sprocket teeth are JUST starting to flare back in one direction from wear... uhg.

Sorry for the rant. This needs an upgrade part.
-Mike
 

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84 Goldwing Aspencade, 91 EX500, 98 Ninja 250/17 300 engine swap, 07 EX500
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I agree, the part is used on a lot Kawasaki bikes, even the ZX10! so I figure there has to be an aftermarket version of this part.
 

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Your mileage may vary but after the first time with a 2ft breaker + 2ft extension I haven't had any problems removing mine. My process is to make sure I cover everything in moly grease and only tighten to the 92lb torque spec.
 

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84 Goldwing Aspencade, 91 EX500, 98 Ninja 250/17 300 engine swap, 07 EX500
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did order a new OEM nut, with the washer as well.

I don't need a titanium or a stainless steel nut, I just want one 😁.

On my other bikes I've replaced some of the nuts, bolts, etc with titanium or stainless ones.

Can I ask people are using moly grease, instead of anti-seize compound?
 

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Your mileage may vary but after the first time with a 2ft breaker + 2ft extension I haven't had any problems removing mine. My process is to make sure I cover everything in moly grease and only tighten to the 92lb torque spec.
How do you guys lock the rear wheel? I don't want to pull too hard and break something.
 

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84 Goldwing Aspencade, 91 EX500, 98 Ninja 250/17 300 engine swap, 07 EX500
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I good piece of wood, a 2x4 thru the rear wheel, and swing arm, also could use a to piece of metal pipe, 3/4" if black pipe I have used as well.
 
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How do you guys lock the rear wheel? I don't want to pull too hard and break something.
I use a length of wood. Pipe works too but I’m afraid of scratching something.

The wood makes scary creaking noises, fair warning.
 

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I did order a new OEM nut, with the washer as well.

I don't need a titanium or a stainless steel nut, I just want one 😁.

On my other bikes I've replaced some of the nuts, bolts, etc with titanium or stainless ones.

Can I ask people are using moly grease, instead of anti-seize compound?
I use moly grease because it claims it is for high-vibration applications and it seems to be what most people use. Anti-seize may work as well or better but I haven’t tried it.
 

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Thanks. I hope I won't end up like @SparkyMJ
I'm at the first stage of pulling hard and pulling harder. I'm starting to think to take it to a shop.
 

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84 Goldwing Aspencade, 91 EX500, 98 Ninja 250/17 300 engine swap, 07 EX500
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you know someone that has an air impact driver, just take it to them to break it loose for you.
 
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I found a good extension for my breaker bar. It doubles it.
But now I'm thinking that if the breaker bar is long enough, and the nut still doesn't yield, something has to break, right? Probably the axle will snap off the nut? or the chain? (The chain may get stretched even if you get the nut out), or the bar or wood that was placed between the wheel and the swing arm? I wonder what would break first.
 

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I used a breaker bar with piece of wood holding the wheel and tapped the end of the socket with a hammer (directly over the socket) while leaning on the bar and it came right off. This after an impact gun would not work.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

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Topaz yeah I was in your shoes. It just felt more and more sketchy, I was worried I would snap a gear in my transmission or snap my chain or something worse. We tried a ton of breaker bars and multiple shops' full size impacts, didn't solve the problem.

If you can't get it off and the shops cant, then dremel with a thin cutting disc is the only way. You will end up grinding away some of the CS threads, but it must be done. You can be pretty careful and get it done, but it's a once, MAYBE TWICE solution, then you'll destroy the CS.

I am seeing my chain starting to develop the dreaded internal rust dust, so I know it's coming up on that time, but I am seriously worried that I will end up breaking stuff trying to replace my sprockets. I am very tempted to just leave them and throw ANOTHER new chain at the same old sprockets. The N300 doesn't have enough power to really mess up the teeth too much, so I am hoping they are still good. I need to get a closer look, but uhg. Sprocket jobs scare me.

Hopefully you got it sorted out, but if it comes to the worst, dremel and a cutting wheel does the job. Kinda wish these were like the 250s where the engine sprocket literally bolted onto the CS, with a couple small bolts, not a massive nut. Lol.

-Mike
 

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I got my countershaft nut off with a 2 foot breaker bar and a 1.5 foot closed-end wrench added for additional leverage. First piece of wood I used to hold the wheel snapped in half before the nut moved. So I used a thicker piece and tried again. Finally came off. I put the nut back on using the proper torque spec and was able to get it back off again using just the 2 foot breaker. So I think once you have the nut off (either by breaker bar or cutting it off) you should be good for the future.
 
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