[sparkcycle]

Ok, so I installed the BoosterPlug tonight. Turned out to not be a hard job. Side covers, seat, tank side covers, four bolts for the tank, and then I was able to lift the tank a couple inches and prop a stick under it to hold it up so I could reach in and get to the connector. Then I ran the temperature sensor to a spot under the back seat where it's not visible unless you look, put it back together, and I was done. How does it work? Exactly as advertised. I was kind of surprised because I'm a bit skeptical about most claims, but it makes a noticeable difference. It feels like a much more refined ride, and it made my exhaust sound a lot better. Gear 1 is now really smooth and seems to go further, acceleration in general is much smoother, power seems more uniform... basically everything it promised to do on the box, it did. I'm pretty happy with it.

I should have taken video, but I did take a couple of pictures, I just don't know how to post them here. If I figure that out I'll post them. All in all, though, given that I'm not racing on a track, I think this BoosterPlug will basically do the job of something like a PowerCommander but with much more simplicity and a much lower price. Waiting for a high-flow air filter, we'll see how that works with the boosterplug.

So when you roll off the throttle, is it a lot smoother?

 

[Mwlcarter]

Yes. And less abrupt engine braking. Ah, I see how to add pics... I trimmed the excess from the zip ties; only a bit of one is visible if you're looking closely. I may replace it with a black zip tie eventually, but it's not a big priority.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RTctd2pe6-SZaYdHdYxXV1UY7vEyQFUssQ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OwcyGeMEzYULX7yIcpDnFJwEUxYZPB5chQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hbdmaoQhPHXXqcKIyejD2IU3ZHcMQ_mAvg/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QVqOflSwR4Th5uv_n9T5H3dTcBdRoLQUYg/view?usp=sharing

 

[IronWarrior]

Gear 1 ... seems to go further

Can you clarify this statement? Do you mean you just spend more time in 1st gear, or do you mean that the higher rev range feels more useable in 1st gear?

 

[Mwlcarter]

I mean that the higher rev range feels more usable in 1st geat. Before I'd go to 20km/h and it sounded like it really badly needed a shift, now it goes to 30km/h, and it sounds better the whole way. And 1st is less all or nothing at slow speeds.

 

[benjaninja]

Ok, so I installed the BoosterPlug tonight. Turned out to not be a hard job. Side covers, seat, tank side covers, four bolts for the tank, and then I was able to lift the tank a couple inches and prop a stick under it to hold it up so I could reach in and get to the connector. Then I ran the temperature sensor to a spot under the back seat where it's not visible unless you look, put it back together, and I was done. How does it work? Exactly as advertised. I was kind of surprised because I'm a bit skeptical about most claims, but it makes a noticeable difference. It feels like a much more refined ride, and it made my exhaust sound a lot better. Gear 1 is now really smooth and seems to go further, acceleration in general is much smoother, power seems more uniform... basically everything it promised to do on the box, it did. I'm pretty happy with it.

I should have taken video, but I did take a couple of pictures, I just don't know how to post them here. If I figure that out I'll post them. All in all, though, given that I'm not racing on a track, I think this BoosterPlug will basically do the job of something like a PowerCommander but with much more simplicity and a much lower price. Waiting for a high-flow air filter, we'll see how that works with the boosterplug.

This is good news! Let us know how it goes with the new air filter

 

[Phoenix]

Hello! Sorry for joining in late, I know this thread had begun years ago.
I would like to focus specifically on what Sulman said in post #11:

I noticed certain RPM bands and gears are much worse for it. Coasting along around 15mph in 3rd on the level is a good example, you can hear this slight burr...burr...burr...burr and gentle rocking as the fueling dips up and down. Before my new muffler I thought it was just a rubbing brake disk or some chain tightness. Opening the throttle just a tiny bit, or even going up a gear and dropping revs can smooth it out.

I started a thread asking about this specific issue, when I accelerate EXTREMELY slow or FULL send, bike sounds/feels amazing, no throttle issues.
However, when I maintain a Steady speed I can hear/feel the engine firing on/off, its making a bbrr br br br br brr rbr sound instead of a smooth brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. This translates into vibration at certain speeds which can feel uncomfortable. Just want to make sure that this is a common issue everyone is having with stock Ninja 300. I'm going to check my air filter and replace to the recommended K&N and also check the APS/TPS (Accelerator/Throttle Position Sensors) for condensation as was recommended in another thread. Someone also mentioned a TBS (Throttle Body Sync) might fix it. Just want to make other stock 300's have the same issue.

 

[iahawk]

Phoenix - unless something is majorly wrong with your bike you're likely just experiencing what we all feel with the Ninja, especially at part or closed throttle at slow speed. It's not like a car where you can let off the gas and just coast, nice and easy.

When i first got my bike I thought it was terrible, there had to be something wrong. Do you know what was wrong? Me! The rider! I hadn't mastered throttle control. What was once jerky is now smooth.

My bike is mostly stock (just a slip on muffler)...no need to change air filter, mess with fueling, etc. Sure, you can, but you don't have to in order to ride smooth.Practice, practice, practice. The bike, bone stock, is smooth, once you master throttle control.

can you ride smoothly over railroad tracks at slow speed? that takes good throttle control.

Booster plugs and ECU flashes may be helpful but they aren't necessary. Practice good throttle control.

Find Motojitsu on Youtube and watch and learn...he's big on proper throttle control..and practicing.

 

[Phoenix]

Thank you for your input, I am an avid follower of Motojitsu as well. Luckily, I have a giant college parking lot next to my apartment that I practice on a couple times a week, I 100% agree with throttle control training. I read "A Twist of the Wrist 2" by Keith Code, there's also a very good YouTube movie made by Keith Code and his team called "Twist of the Wrist" that's basically the video version of the book. If you are a fan of Motojitsu, I'd definitely recommend reading and/or watching it, even if you already know it still helps to see another professional give their $0.02 and see how different teachers present the same techniques.

My first bike was a 2005 Honda VTX 1300 cruiser, riding at steady speeds it never had any issues with sound or vibration, I only notice this with this 2014 Ninja 300. I've seen a few threads about this issue on the Ninja 300 and just wanted to make sure that this is a common problem that's just engrained in the bike. I say all this just to clarify that I don't think there is a rider issue involved, I'm holding a perfectly steady speed and I feel the engine rapidly clicking on/off to hold the speed, rather than slowly and steadily applying fuel like any other motorcycle/car I've driven. This choppy engine feel happens at ANY constant speed, if I hold a perfect 10mph or 70mph, though the vibration is felt stronger at slower speed cruises. From my understanding of other threads its due to the cheap APS/TPS sensors that come with this bike and that the fuel map is set for extreme fuel efficiency and super low emissions which is why everyone experiences the power 'surge' when going from zero throttle to even just a little bit. Surprisingly I don't see many threads about this in general, so I want to verify that this is in fact an issue with all 300's and not just these select few.

Someone else recommended I replace my chain since it is about time anyway, they experienced the same issue on their non-Kawasaki sport bike and the chain seemed to mitigate the issue a little bit. Going to scrounge around to find what chain I should get for this bike.

 

[Topaz]

^^ A new chain will sure make everything smoother. How many miles on the current chain? I replaced the stock chain at 14k miles. I could have done it a bit earlier, but I kind of neglected it.
I went on a D.I.D VX2. So far so good. It goes smooth.

I also felt a change in the smoothness of the ride when I installed the Power Commander. I used a map that someone posted here in the forum. But, as mentioned above, good practice should be enough.

 

[Phoenix]

I don't think chain was ever replaced and bike is at 9k miles. I saw a few threads recommending the DID VX2 you got, I want to get one but it seems the price went up from $75 to $115 being the cheapest I can find...

What do you think about this D.I.D. 520VX3 120-Link Gold Chain which is $81 at current posting on Amazon. It comes with a clip master link so I'm going to have to buy this D.I.D. 520VX3 Gold Rivet Master Link which is $11 at current posting on CycleGear website (found identical price on Revzilla as well btw). I'd have to cut the 120 link (all I need is to Dremel and punch it out with a chain breaker, right?) to a 106.

Did your VX2 come with a clip or rivet master link? If a clip, how many miles have you put on it? I've never done a chain replacement before but I've seen some horror stories about the clip links...

 

[Topaz]

I don't know about the VX3, but if it's the evolution of the VX2, then it should be fine I guess, and it's cheaper.


My VX2 came with a clip master which lasted only the test ride. Right after I came from the test ride, the clip wasn't there anymore, But it must have been my mistake. I didn't have the press tool, so I just pressed it as much as I could with a set of pliers. Not the right way to do it, and it didn't hold. So I got a new rivet master link ($4 at the dealer) and the removal/rivet tool. Second time went fine. I put about 1500 miles so far with the new chain, street and track. No problems.

To remove the old chain, a dremel and a pin to punch the pin should be enough. When I did it, I couldn't punch the pin out so I ended up working with the dremel until the plate came out. No big deal, just more time on the dremel. I felt I was punching too hard and didn't like it. Maybe I wasn't doing it right.
In my bike, 2013, the stock chain was an endless chain, that is, no master link, so you just cut on any link. They are all the same.