I've been looking for a Ninja 300 recently and I found a 2015 Anniversary Edition ABS with 21k miles, everything on it is stock, no modifications.
I would like to know if the price is fair for a deal like this, 4100$ and I think the owner is willing to drop the price to 3900$.
What do you think?
Personally, I think that the price is high. And why do I think that ? Well, because I could sell you my 2017 ABS KRT for in the low 4,000 dollar range. And my Ninja is pristine with only 600 miles on it. Also, comes with full cover and it has the higher factory windshield and factory GEL seat. Also, not yet installed is a RAD GUARD and foam grips.
So yes, I think their price is high :excl: You can do the math and make your own decision.:shrug.001:
BUT, then again, my NINJA is NOT , FOR SALE . As I love it. >
I ended up buying that motorcycle, runs really well, no damages at all. I am really happy with it. I should've thought that the prices are different from EU to US, my bad. I got it in the end for 3800$ which is pretty good for EU market.
I am 74 years old and after some 16 bikes I am sooo glad I bought the 300. Just fitted a set of the new Bridgestone S22's to replace the Dunlop GP 900's that came with it new. Such a huge difference. I cannot speak highly enough about them. They transform the Ninja . IMHO So glad you love your new bike.
Knoffie
At 20k+ miles, start watching maintenance pretty carefully. the 300 motor is pretty indestructible as long as you keep up on the oil changes, valves, and spark plugs. All those things are easy to do, and my clutch went out at maybe 25k, also relatively easy job to swap it out. The transmission may get a little noisier and 'clunkier', but I find it to still run perfectly well, going on 35k miles on mine.
I have a 2014 SE and I am just under 30,000 miles on it right now. I just finished a valve job and it needed it. I agree that keeping up on the valves and spark plugs is a good idea. Mine shows no signs of giving up the ghost. My clutch is still working very well too, but I am pretty easy on it I suppose ( mostly freeway commuter driving ) and very little canyon carving. With bikes, I tend to go with the 3/5ths rule. Whatever its base price was x that by .20 and then multiply that result by 3. Then stick to a box that is $500 around it. If the bike is truly clean, low miles ( less than 20k miles ) and can be shown to be cared for, then yeah, pony up for it. If the bike has been dropped, has piss poor maintenance records, is hacked together, then shoot for closer to or below half the cost of the base price.
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