Taller Rider - Foot Peg clearance - Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Taller Rider - Foot Peg clearance

For taller track day riders/racers. What is your rearset/foot peg solution? I'm 6'1", 195lbs. With stock rearsets my pegs drag constantly. With my aftermarket rearsets, my peg location is about 1" back and positioned just above the level of the swim arm for reference. No dragging, but my legs are so bent it feels like I took a bullet to the knee after 15 minutes. The vibration felt from knee dragging only makes it worse. I had to stop early on the last session of the day (30 min session).

In theory stretching my leg out should help with fatigue but i'm not sure how to accomplish this. Looking around the paddock most foot peg positions seem to be around where the swim arm starts and in the middle of their height. My 1 on 1 coach gave me some props on improving technique but noticed my bad ergonomics setup. Sitting on his 1198 felt amazing, fit like a glove, so I'm also getting concerned that the ninja is just physically too small for my frame. He told me to get it addressed so I can focus more on what I'm doing rather than the pain I'm in.

Are there shorter foot pegs top use with the oem brackets that wont drag? Feel like this would be the easiest solution. Or, do I just need to suck it up? I get that racing is about performance, not comfort, but honestly the knee pain is getting unbearable. My first few laps are usually pretty clean but it starts to fall off from there. Too many days spent behind a catchers plate and hauling stuff on my back in the Army.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 09:19 AM
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Higher pegs were ok to me, but I'm only 5-11. If you want the pegs in the OEM position, you could take off the factory screw in feelers to get a little more lean angle. You better watch your toe position and have decent toe sliders on your boots though.

Then just really work on hanging off more to shift center of gravity more so you can get around faster without grinding pegs. A lot of cornering limitation is just body position.

Edit: Other idea - I had a friend who did this - re-upholster your seat to add an inch. find a local shop to do it. It might not be as pretty but it might do the job. Make sure they use relatively dense foam so it doesn't just sink when you sit on it.
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Last edited by Zaph; 04-13-2019 at 09:24 AM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Zaph View Post
Higher pegs were ok to me, but I'm only 5-11. If you want the pegs in the OEM position, you could take off the factory screw in feelers to get a little more lean angle. You better watch your toe position and have decent toe sliders on your boots though.

Then just really work on hanging off more to shift center of gravity more so you can get around faster without grinding pegs. A lot of cornering limitation is just body position.

Edit: Other idea - I had a friend who did this - re-upholster your seat to add an inch. find a local shop to do it. It might not be as pretty but it might do the job. Make sure they use relatively dense foam so it doesn't just sink when you sit on it.
The seat idea is a good one. So my solution was a hybrid of the oem pegs and after markets I did grind the foot peg down further a little. Still dragging toes and not pegs yet. I did scrape the hell out of the rear break lever at turn 1 on Vir. So bad it bent out at 45 degrees and picked my bike up but I was able to save it. Ended up bending it back in as far it will go for now. Just have to stay conscious and spider man my toe as inward as possible but it does keep me more disciplined. Finally, yes I'm much less fatigued with this setup. Chasing down ducatis out here all day feels good. See attached for before and after pics.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 01:27 PM
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Are you pulling your foot back to where just your toes are on the peg when you tip into a corner?

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 02:14 PM
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You may also want to make suspension adjustments for your weight as well. The little Ninjas are sprung for smaller riders, so you may have too much sag and overall too low of spring rates, which will decrease clearance and drag pegs earlier.

You are hanging-off a bit, right?

Stock pegs without feelers, additional seat padding, increased spring rates, and maybe a bit more hanging-off would most likely make it much more comfortable for you and decrease the chances of grinding the pegs.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Are you pulling your foot back to where just your toes are on the peg when you tip into a corner?
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Originally Posted by jkv45 View Post
You may also want to make suspension adjustments for your weight as well. The little Ninjas are sprung for smaller riders, so you may have too much sag and overall too low of spring rates, which will decrease clearance and drag pegs earlier.

You are hanging-off a bit, right?

Stock pegs without feelers, additional seat padding, increased spring rates, and maybe a bit more hanging-off would most likely make it much more comfortable for you and decrease the chances of grinding the pegs.
I'm running 85kg race tech springs. Forks are raised half an inch so thr body is slightly lowered. Suspension feels great.
I am making a conscious effort to place my toe as far inside the peg as I can go. I can actually use the peg bracket to rest my heel on as a point of reference. Attached is a pick of my left side which I haven't dragged yet. On my last heat I was focusing on getting further out and up on the bike and its definitely better. Knees getting down first more consistently.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 04:55 PM
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How about the rear shock?

Why raise the tubes? With sag set properly front and rear that is just going to quicken the steering, which shouldn't be needed for a small bike/larger rider combo - I wouldn't think.

Zaph? Thoughts?
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 10:16 PM
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Rear shock did all the difference for me, for foot grinding. I have race tech springs and gold valve emulators in the front, but the gsxr rear shock really firmed up the back end and keeps me from dragging my toes. Getting off the bike more, helps a ton too.

My woodcraft rear sets are all the way back and down and I donít drag my toes anymore, mostly due to the suspension. My fork Tubes are set at stock position.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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How about the rear shock?

Why raise the tubes? With sag set properly front and rear that is just going to quicken the steering, which shouldn't be needed for a small bike/larger rider combo - I wouldn't think.

Zaph? Thoughts?
I thought about the rear shock after my last post. My preload is set to 4 right now. The tubes are raised to accommodate my angled clip ons on top of the triple tree. I know some people have said no to do this and go with the woodcrafts but thats a heafty price for essentially a bracket with replaceable tubes. Honestly, it felt better anyways. I could tip in earlier and hold a tighter line with the same/more cornerspeed a lot more comfortably and with great feel. idk if this is just me getting better or the adjustments.

The emulators and the gsxr rear shock were next on the part list, but I'm afraid to say I'm falling out of love with my bike and leaning more towards trading up.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:50 PM
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The rear shock has to go. It just canít take the pressure of the track. A cheap option is a gsxr shock. For $50 or so, itís worth it, even if you trade up later.

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