changed oil which led to engine vibrations - Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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changed oil which led to engine vibrations

This might seem strange...it did to me. My Ninja 300 is exactly one year old and has covered 3767 kms. I had the first service done at 1000 kms as per the book . Maxima 10W 40 synblend was the oil put in on that first service ( Synthetic/ mineral blend). Fast forward its now 10 months since that was done so I bought some Penrite full synthetic 10 W 40 ( Australian made ) which contains every additive known to man . Changed the stock oil filter to a K&N. And job done...or so I thought. When I took it for a test ride I immediately noticed the the engine vibrated more than usual . Bewildered? You bet. So I drained the new oil.Refilled the bike with the old oil I had just taken out, and which was only 2500 klms old and replaced the K& N oil filter with a genuine Kawasaki oil filter. Took it for a run and immediately noticed that the bike was back to her old self...happy as Larry ( to coin an Aussie phrase) no vibration. Has this happened to others? Is the 300 sensitive to which oil is used? Is full synthetic not the right oil to use? All I know is that my bike did not seems happy at all on full synthetic. Another issue is that while the bike is under new warranty Kawasaki might not be pleased that a non genuine oil filter was used and may void any warranty should I experience and engine/ clutch/ gear box issues.
love to hear your thoughts.
By the way I am not a newbie I have been riding bikes for over 30 years. I am mystified.

knoffie ( Paul )

Last edited by knoffie; 11-02-2019 at 10:48 AM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 09:06 AM
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There's no good technical explanation that I can think of (other than there being an issue with the particular batch of oil ) but the proof is in the pudding I suppose.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2019, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by knoffie View Post
This might seem strange...it did to me. My Ninja 300 is exactly one year old and has covered 3767 kms. I had the first service done at 1000 kms as per the book . Maxima 10W 40 synblend was the oil put in on that first service ( Synthetic/ mineral blend). Fast forward its now 10 months since that was done so I bought some Penrite full synthetic 10 W 40 ( Australian made ) which contains every additive known to man . Changed the stock oil filter to a K&N. And job done...or so I thought. When I took it for a test ride I immediately noticed the the engine vibrated more than usual . Bewildered? You bet. So I drained the new oil.Refilled the bike with the old oil I had just taken out, and which was only 2500 klms old and replaced the K& N oil filter with a genuine Kawasaki oil filter. Took it for a run and immediately noticed that the bike was back to her old self...happy as Larry ( to coin an Aussie phrase) no vibration. Has this happened to others? Is the 300 sensitive to which oil is used? Is full synthetic not the right oil to use? All I know is that my bike did not seems happy at all on full synthetic. Another issue is that while the bike is under new warranty Kawasaki might not be pleased that a non genuine oil filter was used and may void any warranty should I experience and engine/ clutch/ gear box issues.
love to hear your thoughts.
By the way I am not a newbie I have been riding bikes for over 30 years. I am mystified.

knoffie ( Paul )
You could always drain the oil again and use an OEM filter if you're worried, but I don't see how warranty can be denied based on an oil filter unless.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2019, 05:58 AM
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You are the ONLY person I have ever heard of that keeps the old oil around long enough to reuse in the same engine it just came out of!



What's that Penrite oil made of, exactly? Kangaroo & wallaby hooves?

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2019, 09:56 PM
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I've heard of a few scarce issues with the K&N filter for the ninja, and one of my local trusted mechanics steers every customer away from them on purpose. He said (and i dont know if i believe this) that the K&N filter is 'low resistance' filter, it is designed to allow fast flow of oil. But on some bikes, the resistance of flow through the filter is not only expected by the engine and oil pump, but needed.

I was experiencing CCT noise with the K&N filter and *synthetic* 10w-40 motul oil. And on top of the noise, my clutch felt crappy. It was grabby, not smooth, and the part of the lever pull that was actual "clutch action" was very small and unforgiving.

So I went back to the kawi filter, and kawi/honda *conventional* 10w-40 with nothing special in it. Night and day, runs so much better. Much quieter, clutch feels perfect, and I am at 30,000 miles on my '14. Runs Great.

Did you run the bike for a minute after you filled it with new oil the first time to allow the oil to refill the system and get air bubbles out, then top it off? (meaning, have you done many oil changes on various vehicles before?) It is essential that you replace the filter, fill it up with oil, run the engine for a minute or two to get the pump spinning, then top it off again to the correct amount.

But you did say you put the old stuff back in and it was fine, so perhaps not the issue. Keep in mind that used engine oil has different properties than when it was new too.

I strongly recommend the kawi filter, and conventional motorcycle oil for the 300. In my opinion, this engine hasn't changed a whole lot since the original 250s came out, which was a long time ago. So my thinking was that the engine was designed back then for use with conventional oil, and since then, hasn't changed much except for piston/cylinder dimensions a bit. I've pulled apart a 250r engine from more than 10 years ago, and it is exactly the same as the 300. And I can confirm that conventional oil runs better than other types with additives and stuff, for my bike at least.

Go get some literal Kawasaki or Honda branded 10w-40 standard 4-stroke motorcycle oil, that's all I use now, its cheap, and works great. Plus at my mileage, I have to stay on top of oil changes anyhow, so it all works out.

Good luck, hope this helps.
-Mike
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-12-2019, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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Mike, thanks for your reply. I really appreciate it and puts my mind at rest. I have ordered new Maxima synblend( 50/50 Mineral /synthetic) and will replace the "old" oil over the weekend . So happy that my intuition was correct. This is exactly what makes this Forum a success. None of us know everything and together we can solve most issues, with a little help from our friends.
Paul
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-12-2019, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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Settle down Mal! ( post up a couple ) The oil was drained into a clean container and used to refill crankcase after 2 hours max. So no problems there. FYI Penrite oil is a high quality oil made of emu
oil, gum leaf concentrate and a mix of Fosters Lager and vegemite. Best you can get.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-12-2019, 04:43 PM
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Knoffie,

Good luck getting this resolved, oil is just one of those things that shouldn't be keeping you from happily riding. Hope you get it fixed soon, let us know any results from changing it up!

-Mike
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Today, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knoffie View Post
FYI Penrite oil is a high quality oil made of emu oil, gum leaf concentrate and a mix of Fosters Lager and vegemite. Best you can get.



No wonder it's GARBAGE!!!


The really good oil is made of rendered Kiwi bird oil, Kauri tree bark concentrate and a mix of Steinlager and Marmite!
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