Weak rear brake - Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-21-2014, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
Veteran
 
rockieb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: San Marino
Posts: 105
Thanks: 54
Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts
Garage
Weak rear brake

So I just got my Vortex rearsets and had them installed yesterday. Everything came out excellent except now my rearbreak barely even works and I don't have a rearbreak light actuator. The switch is fine, I don't really need it as long as my breaks actually do work...which it doesn't.

But what I'm trying to say is, I've hooked up everything correctly and now my break barely works. I'll press down on the pedal and I just feel a weak spring and no break. So it's really sketch when riding fast.

Does anyone know how to adjust my breaks or make sure they'll work right? Thanks

And for all you who have Vortex rearsets, which position do you have them on?
(Can anyone also tell me what's the max distance the peg can go back?)

Last edited by Spacep0d; 03-21-2014 at 03:31 PM. Reason: Spelling
rockieb is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-21-2014, 04:19 PM
Seasoned Vet
 
DaveTheCanuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Toronto'ish, Canada
Posts: 1,150
Thanks: 130
Thanked 480 Times in 287 Posts
Did you install them yourself or have a shop do it?

The Vortex rearsets require reversing the position of the rear master cylinder, which requires disconnecting the rear brake line.

There's probably air in the system. If you did it yourself, bleed the rear brake. If a shop did the install, get them to do it.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


2013 Kawasaki Ninja 300 - Track bike
2011 Yamaha XJ6N - Daily driver
DaveTheCanuck is offline  
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-21-2014, 06:05 PM
Forum Champion
 
cruizin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Townsville, Australia
Posts: 12,371
Thanks: 1,428
Thanked 2,981 Times in 2,127 Posts
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveTheCanuck View Post
There's probably air in the system. If you did it yourself, bleed the rear brake. If a shop did the install, get them to do it.
also if you drop in some decent DOT 4 brake fluid when bleeding the lines you will find it way better then the stock crap Kwaka shove in there when you first get the bike the stock crap makes the brakes feel like a sponge





To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


cruizin is offline  
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
Veteran
 
rockieb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: San Marino
Posts: 105
Thanks: 54
Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts
Garage
Thank you for the replies but could someone show me how to bleed my rear break?
rockieb is offline  
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 12:10 AM
Forum Champion
 
cruizin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Townsville, Australia
Posts: 12,371
Thanks: 1,428
Thanked 2,981 Times in 2,127 Posts
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockieb View Post
Thank you for the replies but could someone show me how to bleed my rear break?

this is something you had better get right from word go , your life is on the line with brakes. honestly if you donít know what your doing your better off seeing a mechanic





To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


cruizin is offline  
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 01:19 AM
Post Whore
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,715
Thanks: 11
Thanked 389 Times in 285 Posts
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...brake_lines%3F

It wasn't that hard to learn how to do. You'll know it's right when the brake feels firm. If you have the tools, give it a go. The rear brake isn't that essential anyway; I went without a functional rear brake for a few weeks lol.
tfkrocks is offline  
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 02:09 AM
Seasoned Vet
 
Atticus27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: San Gabriel, CA
Posts: 707
Thanks: 86
Thanked 74 Times in 65 Posts
Rockie, I'm looking into getting some ATE DOT4 off amazon because I want to change my front/rear brake fluid.

Basically for rear brake, you can do what Cruizin does with a syringe and attach a thin rubber tubing to the syringe to the nipple, manually pull the syringe back vacuuming the rear brake fluid, add new fluid and repeat until you feel the old fluid is out. OR...go to harbor freight, get a $5 brake bleeder http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man...kit-37201.html which works just as well. We can do it together if you like because I want to do it too.

I know how to adjust so the rear brake light becomes more sensitive to turn on but i don't think that's what you're looking for...

Instagram: aphan_N3

Mods: ASV shorty levers, woodcraft slider spools, techspec tank grip, Plastidipped windshield and passenger rear pegs, delete front reflector, red LED brake light + modulator, Shogun no-cut frame sliders, Diablo Rosso II tire, SSR preload adjusters, Driven clip-ons, fender eliminator kit

-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

Gears: Shoei Qwest (clear&darksmoke) / SP-2 Alpinestars Glove / Alpinestars GP Pro Jacket / Alpinestars Leather Track pants / Cortech Latigo Boots
Atticus27 is offline  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 04:31 AM Thread Starter
Veteran
 
rockieb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: San Marino
Posts: 105
Thanks: 54
Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atticus27 View Post
Rockie, I'm looking into getting some ATE DOT4 off amazon because I want to change my front/rear brake fluid.

Basically for rear brake, you can do what Cruizin does with a syringe and attach a thin rubber tubing to the syringe to the nipple, manually pull the syringe back vacuuming the rear brake fluid, add new fluid and repeat until you feel the old fluid is out. OR...go to harbor freight, get a $5 brake bleeder http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man...kit-37201.html which works just as well. We can do it together if you like because I want to do it too.

I know how to adjust so the rear brake light becomes more sensitive to turn on but i don't think that's what you're looking for...
I'm down. Just give me a date and a time and I'll see if I can make it. And send me a list of what to buy
rockieb is offline  
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 04:35 AM
Forum Champion
 
cruizin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Townsville, Australia
Posts: 12,371
Thanks: 1,428
Thanked 2,981 Times in 2,127 Posts
Garage
location detail filling in working at its finest here. i urge you both to exercise some caution when doing your brakes, i hate to read about either of you injuring yourself cos you didn’t do the job correctly in the first place.





To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


cruizin is offline  
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-22-2014, 05:04 AM
Seasoned Vet
 
Atticus27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: San Gabriel, CA
Posts: 707
Thanks: 86
Thanked 74 Times in 65 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cruizin View Post
location detail filling in working at its finest here. i urge you both to exercise some caution when doing your brakes, i hate to read about either of you injuring yourself cos you didnít do the job correctly in the first place.
Thank you for your concern It's something I've been waiting to do, i'll keep you updated on our endeavor. I've been doing a lot of research on bleeding brakes too, excited!

Instagram: aphan_N3

Mods: ASV shorty levers, woodcraft slider spools, techspec tank grip, Plastidipped windshield and passenger rear pegs, delete front reflector, red LED brake light + modulator, Shogun no-cut frame sliders, Diablo Rosso II tire, SSR preload adjusters, Driven clip-ons, fender eliminator kit

-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~-~

Gears: Shoei Qwest (clear&darksmoke) / SP-2 Alpinestars Glove / Alpinestars GP Pro Jacket / Alpinestars Leather Track pants / Cortech Latigo Boots
Atticus27 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hard break in, the only break in NoRvrs Ninja 300 General Discussion 10 08-27-2016 09:14 AM
Break-in. zimzim Ninja 300 General Discussion 90 12-03-2015 12:17 PM
FS: Some cracked fairings, OEM: front break lever, rear break pedal, handle bar grip quitit Parts and Gear for sale 7 01-11-2014 01:43 AM
Break In? Perkowski New Rider Section 4 11-19-2013 06:32 PM
weak handlebars Fox Ninja 300 Issues and Troubleshooting 14 04-22-2013 01:09 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome