Bike wn't start/stay running - Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-16-2019, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Bike wn't start/stay running

So, it snowed and my 14 ninja was outside. I tried starting it. It would start, then stall. I did this a couple of times before it wouldn't even do that. It would still turn over. I have had a trickle charger on it for the last week, but it is -10C out and has been -20C for a few nights.


Would it be the cold or the battery that is the problem.... or could it be that it has been sitting since the summer, so possibly bad gas?

2014 Ninja 300
1968 Hodaka Ace 90 - My fathers old bike (currently in pieces.)
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 07:15 AM
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Could be a few things. The cold could have killed the battery, gas could be bad or the bike may not like how cold it is. I've heard these primitive fi systems can struggle when it's very cold out.

Was the engine spinning as fast as it normally does while on the starter or was it sluggish? If sluggish I would consider a new battery.
Sitting since the summer isn't a crazy long time for the gas but it could still be starting to go bad. It may be a good idea to drain the tank and refill with fresh gas.

Can you get the bike into a warmer place like a garage? I'd be curious if it started simply by being warmer.
Personally I'd start at the battery, gas next and then go from there.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 11:45 AM
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A few things come to mind.

If the battery isn't in great health and isn't spinning the engine over briskly, it may not want to start in those temps - even if everything else is good.

If the oil is too heavy on the low "W" end, it will also slow cranking. If you plan to start the engine or ride in cold temps an oil with a low "W" rating is always best. Rotella T6 5W-40 is more than adequate for year round use, even in extremely high temps. A "5W" oil (especially a synthetic) flows and lubricates much better in lower temps, and increase cranking speeds.

If the gas is old, or was purchased in the summer, it's not going to want to vaporize in cold temps. Winter-blend gas vaporizes easier than summer-blend, and will make starting much easier. Because winter-blend gas vaporizes easier it can cause "vapor-lock" problems in warm weather, so you need to make sure the gas is right for the temps or you will have problems.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-20-2019, 09:25 AM
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Personally, I have a real hard time listening to people blame so many of their problems on bad gas.

I run (3) snow throwers, (2) lawn tractors and lawn mower, Stand by Home Generator, (4) vehicles and (2) motorcyles. At some point in time, they all get stored. I will not even mention the boats that I've had that were stored an average of 9 months out of the year.

Not once in over 20 years have I ever had a bad gas situation with any. I use the highest grade of Ethonal FREE gas that I can find and the top name brands of GAS Stabilizers.

" NO PROBLEMS "
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-20-2019, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpooba View Post
Personally, I have a real hard time listening to people blame so many of their problems on bad gas.

I run (3) snow throwers, (2) lawn tractors and lawn mower, Stand by Home Generator, (4) vehicles and (2) motorcyles. At some point in time, they all get stored. I will not even mention the boats that I've had that were stored an average of 9 months out of the year.

Not once in over 20 years have I ever had a bad gas situation with any. I use the highest grade of Ethonal FREE gas that I can find and the top name brands of GAS Stabilizers.

" NO PROBLEMS "
That's what's been saving you!

Gas with ethanol doesn't last as long as gas without. It collects water and is prone to Phase Separation (https://www.bellperformance.com/blog...tion-water-e10) . That can happen it the tank at the station.

If he has summer-blend gas it's not going to want to start well if it's below freezing - no matter if the gas is good or bad.

Old or bad gas is one of the first things I always suggest as a possible problem if the engine ran fine, was parked for a while, then won't run. No amount of part replacement, cleaning, or tuning will get an engine to run correctly if the gas is bad. It's troubleshooting 101.

No reason to run "Premium" gas unless it's the only grade available without ethanol. Chances are it sat in the tank longer due to being less popular, and some engines don't start as well when using it. It also makes less power if it's not required to control detonation.

"Premium" isn't better - just higher octane for engines that need it to control detonation. Some engines will not need it during summer months, but as temps drop and air becomes more dense and mixtures lean-out (non F.I. engines) they may require the additional octane to keep from detonating.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-20-2019, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpooba View Post
Personally, I have a real hard time listening to people blame so many of their problems on bad gas.

I run (3) snow throwers, (2) lawn tractors and lawn mower, Stand by Home Generator, (4) vehicles and (2) motorcyles. At some point in time, they all get stored. I will not even mention the boats that I've had that were stored an average of 9 months out of the year.

Not once in over 20 years have I ever had a bad gas situation with any. I use the highest grade of Ethonal FREE gas that I can find and the top name brands of GAS Stabilizers.

" NO PROBLEMS "

I d not put fuel stabilizer in the tank during summer. I also only put 100km on it, and haven't ridden it since July. So, it definitely could be bad gas.

2014 Ninja 300
1968 Hodaka Ace 90 - My fathers old bike (currently in pieces.)
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