key in turned on, no power. - Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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Question key in turned on, no power.

Bike - 2014 Kawasaki 300SE
So, back story. Some asshole jammed a house key into my ignition and snapped it off.
I pulled out old one and put new one in. Chinese knock offs DO NOT work. No signal or anything to cluster.
That was end of summer (september).
Flash forward to now, got OEM replacement direct from kawasaki.
Install Ignition, no power to anything. Check battery, 12.2 volts steady, cluster doesn't even flicker when bike is turned to ON.
Tried some troubleshooting, kickstand up and down a few times, checked the sensor etc. Flicked killswitch on/off a few times. Checked all the fuses in battery compartment and all solid
Nothing working. Out of ideas, anyone know of hidden fuses or things I should check for. Any help appreciated.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 06:13 AM
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Main fuse is normally separate to the rest of the fuses. I couldn't imagine it being anything else but the main fuse or the battery
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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where is the main fuse located?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 11:16 AM
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In front of the battery, right below the bracket the gas tank installs to. I think there are two fuses: The main fuse and the starter fuse. If I remember right.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 01:19 PM
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Another story last week, someone sprayed filler foam into the ignition, so the tumbler pins weren't moving. Maybe keyless is the way to go, but I don't like keyless technology as implemented so far.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 02:45 PM
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I think this might help - I have done it on previous bikes but not on 300.
Unplug the ignition assembly where it plugs into the bike and meter the circuits on the key side.
See if it changes when you turn the key to on - if not the assembly is bad.
No juice on the key side so you are looking for change from an open circuit (no key/key at off) to a closed one (key to on).
If it changes then the problem is further down the line. Also, make sure connector is fully plugged in and clicks/snaps tightly.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 09:05 AM
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12.2 volts is low for a12 volt battery should be over 13 volts. I would charge it. Also make sure none of the contacts backed out when you connected the connectors( it happens).

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 09:57 AM
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12.2 volts should be enough to at least see lights turn on when the key is turned to on. The charge on that battery though and it should be recharged at the soonest. It's when the voltage drops below 12V when you call it a day and retire the battery. The issue here though sounds like for some reason some component in the circuit is remaining open. Inspect your wiring harness as well as people who sabotage bikes aren't against using their keys to destroy any wires that they can get their hands on in quick fashion. someone willing to hammer in a key blank and break it off in the ignition probably also tried to play with some wires too.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 10:43 PM
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Was there ever a resolution to this issue? I have been having the same problem.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 05:08 AM
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The fuse has a cover, took me forever to find it. Had same problem, replaced ignition with Chinese one. Fuse located under bracket where tank bolts on under seat. You cannot see fuse without removing white plastic cover. There is a fuse on left (main fuse, 30 amp) and I believe starter fuse on right.
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