Checking valve clearance DIY (with pics) - Page 3 - Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 01-14-2015, 07:43 PM
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The service manual sais to apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution to all cam parts and journals. I have moly grease( im guessing oil solution is grease?). Im fairly sure the journals are the spots the cam rests in on the head, as well as the one inside the AL plate that hold it down. However, what other cam parts must be lubed with moly grease? The actual lobes maybe?
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-24-2015, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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you can use moly but it's not needed. so basically, put it on any spot that is subject to high friction, like where the shims are. I know a very good mechanic, he said for the valves you can just put engine oil. the thing is, the service manual isn't very good. for example, what moly do they refer to? they sell some that only has 1-3%. I think the Honda one has a much higher %. it may be needed on other parts but not really when working on the valves.
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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-09-2015, 04:23 AM
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Camshaft problem!!

After adjusting the shims and attempting to rebuild everything, I seem to be having a problem with the camshaft turning. I'll be able to get it to turn about 5/6 of the way, but then it will stop suddenly and become stuck at the very same position. I've disassembled and reassembled the thing as well as the chain tensioner over 7 times... trying all sorts of things. The chain spins perfectly fine without the camshafts in place, nothing is clogging it, and it is aligned properly... idk what im doing wrong. Any ideas?

Update: Turns out the things weren't aligned properly ^_^' followed another camshaft timing thread and got the thing working now.

Last edited by Mushrooms6107836; 03-09-2015 at 06:15 PM.
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-04-2015, 05:23 PM
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Help

anyone know what might be causing my exhaust cam to be stuck after removing the caps, chain tensioner, and chain. I noticed there are to cam lobes aiming towards the lifters. Could this be the problem? i set the crank 2T. intake came out flawlessly, but the exhaust is will not give. the valves were tight on the exhaust side.


From riding bear: continuing after checking the valve clearance, to adjust the valves, first make sure that the crankshaft is in the correct position so that the cams are not pushing on the lifters, or it will be impossible to remove the camshafts. I see this is the problem since there was 2 lobes of the cam pushing on the lifters, but how do you find the correct position. is it not 2T. after rotating the crank variously i can never get both the intake cam and exhaust cam to both lay off the lifters at 2T. i have also noticed 1F, 1T, and lines on the crank. if anyone has any recommendations thx in advance

Last edited by djisthemanstan; 04-04-2015 at 06:03 PM. Reason: found partial answer.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 01:49 PM
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The exhaust side camshaft was pretty tight for me aswell. I just took a screwdriver for leverage, stuck it in one of the holes in the cam gear and lifted. Hold on to the other side and lift evenly.

Just as an fyi for others. I ordered Hot Cams HCSHIM01 Shim Kit shim kit for $63 @
Amazon Amazon

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Last edited by warning; 04-06-2015 at 01:52 PM.
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 11:04 PM
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your right the screwdriver in the end was the trick. Ultimately what I believe was holding it on was oil viscosity. When it came off I could feel the oil sticking to it and then I heard that pop it makes when a sticky liquid gives. FOR FUTURE DO IT YOURSELFERS... read the 250j diy posted on the last page, but instead of cutting on an old screwdriver for the chain tensioner use a flat head bit. We have to fight what I believe is the fuel injectors since it says kelhin on the side, and a bit is small enough to hold the tensioner in place (after you have tightened it with a regular screw driver) and beat the injectors when you tighten on the mounting bolts during reassembly.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 11:20 PM
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I got the same kit 5$ higher on ebay. Should have shopped around. it definitely helped with the down time having the kit.
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 12:51 PM
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Excellent write-up!

I actually checked the valve clearance before I read your post. And, when I was putting the cover back realized that one of the circular plug gaskets had indeed fallen into the cam chain tunnel! So, with visions of having to strip the whole engine, I gingerly fished around the bottom of the tunnel with a wire with a hook bent on the end and a long probe flashlight. I finally snagged it and managed to pull it out. Phew! I did not realize that there were two gaskets that could stick to the underside of the valve cover. Now, I know to follow what you suggested and block the cam chain tunnel with rags before trying to wiggle the valve cover off. Thanks!
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warning View Post
The exhaust side camshaft was pretty tight for me aswell.
Mine was also tight as hell! But after some "soft" claps I could move it.

Could you guys read the thickness of the shims on top of them ? Not one number were readable anymore.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djisthemanstan View Post
is it not 2T. after rotating the crank variously i can never get both the intake cam and exhaust cam to both lay off the lifters at 2T. i have also noticed 1F, 1T, and lines on the crank. if anyone has any recommendations thx in advance
For the TDC, the service manual says the wrong Indication, 1T is for cylinder 1 TDC and 2T for cylinder 2. I have also an german manual that says 2T for both cylinder, lol. But on the picture next to description you can see that the rotor is on 1T

EDIT:
If Anybody is interested in heres my valve clearance after 18900km/11743miles.

As you can see only one valve was minimal out off spec (the second exhaust valve from cylinder 1)
Attached Images
File Type: png Intake.png (15.5 KB, 14 views)

Last edited by Töp; 05-15-2016 at 05:01 AM.
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