Checking valve clearance DIY (with pics) - Page 2 - Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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and here's a close up view of the cams. I marked the four intake valves for cylinder 1, A and B, and cyl. 2, C and D. you can see that some of the valves are hard to see, you just have to put your gauge in there without a clear view. you cannot remove their covers (the caps) as it would modify the clearance by letting the cams be pushed up by the valve springs underneath. the shims are under the buckets (they are called buckets as they are literally shaped like a bucket).



this is the chain tensioner which is blocking the view, but you cannot remove that either as the gears are one-piece with the cams. you'll remove this if you want to adjust the valves. I'm thinking to do that myself, and I may post another DIY if I have the time and if people are interested.



that's it and take care when working! a relaxed mind is best for concentration : )
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 07:24 PM
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Awesome write up - keep em coming!

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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 05:09 PM
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Would be awesome if you'll make a valve adjusting DIY when you have to adjust your valves
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 05:02 PM
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just finished my valve adjustment the other day. for you guys doing this yourselves, do yourself a favor and dont pay fuckin ridiculous prices on shims from kawi, it adds up to over $130 really quick. I got the exact individual sized shims for each lifter that i needed from https://www.denniskirk.com/

got the moose racing shims for like, $2 a piece as opposed to kawi's $13 or so.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-08-2014, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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yes I myself didn't know about the individual shims deal so I bought Hot cams refill packs (NOT the general set), 1 pack from 2.70 to 2.95 and 1 pack from 2.40 to 2.65 mm I think, 5 for each size in 0.05 increment (same increment as original Kawasaki for the ninja), for less than $80 total. I might have just needed 1 pack but I wanted to be sure. that works out to a couple of dollars per shim.

the size is 7.48 mm OD, which is not written even in the service manual. it is the same as the 250 and the 500 ninja. I called Kawasaki to confirm the size and the guy would not tell me, he said he didn't know and I had to use Kawasaki shims to be safe, because you know, 'material'. Hardened steel is hardened steel, if Hot cams shims (or other good brands) failed inside the engine people would notice. what's next, use only Kawasaki oil? : )

I also bought a magnetic tool to lift the buckets and shims ($10), and a digital micrometer ($40) as it reads in mm. I don't want to bother with the crazy unit system used in USA (1/32 of an inch?).

I use the beautiful metric international system : ) where everything is on an easy decimal base.

PS: by the way, could a moderator add this thread to the DIY sticky list for for DIYs?

Last edited by RidingBear; 12-08-2014 at 03:54 PM.
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-19-2014, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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So today I adjusted the valves. I started by dropping one of the small rubber gaskets down the camshaft chain hole. I'm grateful to God for my wife who gave me a long piece of metal wire, told me not to worry and to fish it out, which I did. so I didn't need to open the whole engine.

then I knocked the camshaft chain around a bit and spent a great deal of time figuring out whether I had realigned it properly or not (in the service manual there's actually a figure which tells you how to make sure of alignment).

the actual changing of shims took much less time than the above.

after remeasuring my valves are now in spec : )

I don't think there's a need for me to post a full walkthrough because I found this: valve adjustment for the nija 250J which has shim under buckets just like the 300. if you follow that guide after following this thread you'll be fine.

just make sure you put some rag in that camshaft hole just in case : ) I did take some pics and I'll probably post them here next week.
in the 250 guide, the guy uses a broken screwdriver to install the camshaft chain tensioner. I bought a small Al plate from pepboys and cut it to size and make my own push plate to hold the tensioner in place. the push plate dimensions you can eyeball them looking at the tensioner, but there's a diagram in the service manual as well.

my big rubber gasket, after 18k, was starting to fray at the seam so I installed a new one.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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continuing after checking the valve clearance, to adjust the valves, first make sure that the crankshaft is in the correct position so that the cams are not pushing on the lifters, or it will be impossible to remove the camshafts. then:

1. remove the camshaft tensioner. it has 2 pieces, loosen (and later tighten) 4 bolts in criss cross pattern (check the service manual if unsure of pattern). it has 2 aligning pins. I'm removing one in the pic with a magnetic tool.



2. mark the chain in correspondence with the camshaft sprockets, so you know the alignment. (if you lose it, the service manual shows there are 34 chain pins in the 180 degrees from one sprocket to the other sprocket).

3. remove the camshaft caps (see the exhaust one in the pic). it has 4 bolts, always criss cross pattern and gradual loosening. if you don't trust your hand with small torques, you'll need a decent torque wrench. I didn't want to spend $100 on a snap on, and I didn't trust the cheaper ones, so I trusted my hand. it is a small torque! you can cause significant damage here so be careful. the cap is Al it's soft.

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File Type: jpg c2.jpg (179.3 KB, 20 views)

Last edited by RidingBear; 12-22-2014 at 06:18 PM.
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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the cap has 2 aligning pins. see one in the pic. be careful not to drop one inside the engine. it's holding on only by oil viscosity.

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Last edited by RidingBear; 12-22-2014 at 06:19 PM.
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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remove the camshaft chain tensioner (actually I removed the tensioner before removing the cap and the camshaft). alternate loosening the two outer bolts and remove the central bolt cap. when you want to put it back, you have to rotate the inner spring coil mechanism with a screwdriver that fits. then you want to hold it from rotating while you install the two outer bolts. you can either jam a short screwdriver or make a push plate like I did.

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Last edited by RidingBear; 12-22-2014 at 06:30 PM.
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-22-2014, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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finally, raise the buckets with a magnetic tool. the shim willstick to it by oil.



change the shim (just subtract/add the difference). measure the shims with a micrometer. put a dab of oil on the shim and put the shim on the valve stem, then put the bucket on top. close everything up. recheck the clearance. remember to put the chain tensioner before rotating the crankshaft.
close the head and anything else.
congratulations.
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