Oil change DIY - Page 2 - Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum
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post #11 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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LOL sounds good to me XD
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post #12 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 02:38 PM
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Does any oil hit your pipes or plastic when you pull the filter?
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post #13 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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oil will hit the pipe when you pull the filter if you have the stock header on i think. but no oil got on the plastics.

i wiped mine down though just in case.
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post #14 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 02:56 PM
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what weight oil did you use? I usually run 20W50 in my bigger bikes and give them extra warm up time to compensate for the thicker oil.

Any flakes in this oil you just dropped?
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post #15 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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no flakes i could see in this oil change. i am running standard kawasaki 20w50 right now until the next oil change i will start running synthetic
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post #16 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by phrenetiK View Post
no flakes i could see in this oil change. i am running standard kawasaki 20w50 right now until the next oil change i will start running synthetic
why 20w50?? book calls for 10w40...
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post #17 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 03:14 PM
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I'm not sure there's any science behind it. When I was a n00b the crew I rode with all used 20W50 in their R1s and gixxers for years. They claimed that as far and hard as we pushed the engines, a little thicker oil would help protect better than 10W40 since it would resist high temp break-down better.
I'm seldom a follower but in this instance I just followed what my peers did. I know over 25 riders who have used 20W50 for years as well as 3 mechanics and two professional drag racers who all use or recommend 20W50 over 10W40 even when the book calls for 10W40.
Not sure there's any real gains but it obviously doesn't hurt either

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post #18 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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lol oh well i thought it was 10w40 too till i looked at the dealer and they didn't have any 10w40 so i just went with the 20w50.

the 20w50 will be fine for now until i switch to synth, a little thicker and maybe a little less horsepower probably not even a single hp though. for you in washington i would stick to 10w40 as the climate is not as hot as down here in texas.
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post #19 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 03:24 PM
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I have though about going to 5w40 or possibly even 0w40 for winter.. I dont notice it on the 300 but on the 250R it just dosnt feel right until the oil them is above 40 or so.. (I have an afteramarket gauge cluster on my 250R so I got oil temp and water temp)

I ride in all weather, unless there is snow on the ground
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post #20 of 64 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecomputerguy06 View Post
Does any oil hit your pipes or plastic when you pull the filter?
Some oil hits the pipe when you pull the filter, even if you're using a rear stand or center stand.

Trick is to cover your pipe with some aluminium foil. Once you put the new filter on, just pull the foil off. Bam, clean pipes.


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