~$100 DIY Kawasaki Ninja 300 Projector/HID/Halo How-To - Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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~$100 DIY Kawasaki Ninja 300 Projector/HID/Halo How-To

Final product:


You'll need the following parts:




This is an ongoing thread where I will be retrofitting some 2.5" projectors into my Ninja 300 reflectors. Here I will log my project progress pics, steps required, wiring diagrams, etc.

Parts list ($97 + $40 optional):
1. ($32) Nilight® 2.5" Mini HID Bixenon Projector Lens for H1 Bulb Car Gift:chrome Shround
2. ($40) Innovited AC 35W HID Xenon Conversion Kit - 2 Year Warranty
3. ($13) 194 LED Light bulb, Yorkim® 6th Generation, Non-Polarity,12V Lights for 168, 2825,T10 5-SMD LED Bulb (Pack of 10)
4. ($8, optional) Absolute USA 2 In-line ATC Fuse Holder, 2 Relay RLS125 12 VCD Automotive Relay SPDT 30/40A and 2 SRS105 12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket
5. ($8, optional) 2 Pcs H7 Headlight Lamp Plastic Socket Plug Connector for Auto Car
6. ($9, optional) Yakamoz DC12V 16mm 5/8" Green Ring Led Metal Self-locking Latching Push Button Switch Industrial Boat Car DIY Switch Black
7. ($12) Everbrightt 1-Pair 70MM 60SMD COB LED Headlight Angel Eyes Bulb Halo Ring Lamp Light With Housing
8. ($15, optional) 3M Window-Weld 1/4" x 15' Round Ribbon Sealer Roll

Explanations for optional items (+$40):
  • Items #4 and #6 - Waterproof button and relay - I want to be able to switch between my halos (angel eyes) and HID bulbs. When the HIDs are on, I want the LED rings to be completely off and retain any life that I can. I'm unsure of the quality of these SMD LEDs, and I really don't want to have to break everything back apart to replace them if they prematurely go bad. Pending how large of a wiring nightmare I get into, these items may or may not get installed.
  • Item #5 - H7 male-to-female pigtails - I wanted to be able to, if I so desire, remove everything I've done and put the bike back to stock. I may not need these pending what is available in the HID conversion kit, but I ordered them so I wouldn't have the entire project waiting on one minor part. I will be able to use one pair of these connectors (male/female) with the stock H7 plugs, and solder whatever I need to these.
  • Item #8 - 3M window weld butyl tape - You can obviously use some sort of silicone to reseal the headlight enclosure, but I wanted to be able to bake this thing in the oven in the future (or use a heat gun) if I have to replace something. Using the 3M butyl "window weld", I should be able to accomplish this.

I have left out some obvious items like tools, black spray paint, additional wire (if needed), solder, heat shrink tubing, and any other items I consider should be in everyone's garage. If you don't have this stuff, it's cheap and most likely available locally.

More to come soon! I work a full-time job and then some - so as soon as I get some spare time to start tearing the bike down, I'll document my progress here. Stay tuned.

Last edited by zx3rohio; 09-17-2016 at 10:24 PM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Got the headlight out tonight! Gonna try my hand at separating the front from the back. Wish me luck!
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 07:56 PM
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Good luck! Will be interested to see if these have sufficient depth to fit the projectors
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Whew! Got the bottom two quarters detached, but loosening the silicone around the corners is brutal. I'll try more tomorrow after work.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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(above) Original bkmoto cut. This won't work with these Amazon projectors.



(above) The bracket here will be removed so we can get the Dremel cutting wheel into where we need.



(above) Comparison of (left) new cut lines and (right) bkmoto cut lines. The Amazon projector housings will not fit into the OEM reflectors using bkmoto's method. This shows the bottom of the reflectors.



(above) This is another view of the new cut lines, showing the top of the OEM reflector. Just follow the contour of the reflector. It's really self explanatory once you have it in front of you. Be mindful to cut so that the cutting wheel will not scuff the remaining 'good' part of the reflector. You'll be painting this later, but attention to detail is always nice.



(above) On the left is the piece we'll throw away, and on the right is the piece we'll keep. The Amazon projector housing now clears all points which it used to hit.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-10-2016, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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"Beta" photos. Parts are purely just 'sitting there', not permanently affixed or screwed in. I wanted to make sure everything will clear. It does!



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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Reflectors are painted.


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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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For the specific LED rings I bought, they had double-sided sticky foam to affix them to something. They also had some plastic tabs molded in which I did not need. The pictures show me removing the double-sided sticky foam and clipping off the plastic tabs.



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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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In the following pictures, I screwed the projector housing into the painted OEM reflectors. Be sure to use Loctite - red or blue. Red is more permanent, blue is 'medium strength'. Either way, they will hold the nut on the back of the projector and keep it from backing off.

To attach the LED rings to the front of the projectors, I'm using regular clear silicone. Remember that stuff that held the headlight together? Yeah, that stuff. It's high-temp resistant and should offer some cushion as well. I've put 4 small 1" lines of it here to hold the rings in place. Once that dries, I'll probably skim a small coat around the entire perimeter of the LED ring. I want to be able to replace these if the LEDs start dying. After all, they were only like $12.

In the picture showing the rear of the projector housing, you'll see the H7 adapter plate that's inserted to keep the light nice and snug, also keeps it from rotating.









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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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HID preparation:


(above) How the HIDs come wired


(above) How the HIDs look separated. Basically cut the rubber circle thing off and separate everything.


(above) The stock dust cap. I just used wire snippers to make a 'slot' for the stock connectors to be removed through and for the new connectors to fit through.


(above) HID bulb installed through dust cap. The HID bright/dim hood wiring (from the projectors) and the LED angel eye/halo wiring will also come through the slot in the dust cap.
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