The area p tuner is easily one of the best 250 spent on my bike. And I've spent thousands. Even with only the stock exhaust the difference in throttle response is like night and day.
But to answer your question, You will need a tuner if going with a full exhaust or else your air/fuel ratio will be lean.
Will running it lean destroy your bike? I dont know. However you WILL lose power if you neglect the tuner. That kind of defeats the purpose of the full exhaust.
EDIT: Also the Area P comes with preloaded maps and support so you you can do without getting a dyno tune or the auto tune module
Yeah I don't want to be dyno tuning it, that would cost me way too much money. The full exhaust is quite pricey and I was kind of bummed that I would have to spend additional money.
I also looked at other thread, I know it's a standard to procedure just to get both full exhaust and ECU tune.
But what I noticed was that I couldn't find people who got a full system and left ECU stock. So I really wanted to know what would happen.
So I guess Area P is the best way to go?
I was thinking about ECU Flash like Spacep0d is recommending on the thread that I posted, so I looked at their website, and looks like they're gonna charge $200 for flash service, $51 for shipping + handling to send it to Canada, and in addition to that, I would have to pay my own shipping to send the stock ECU to them. So it will be like $300 project and I wouldn't be able to run my bike until I get my ECU back, which seems like a big hassle.
You have to do your research and come to your own conclusion on what fits your needs and budget. I will venture to say that you will not find anybody on this board that has purchased a full system and did not tune their ecu either via flash or piggyback unit.
My build is loosely based on much of the work spacdp0d has done.
The reason I didnt go with the flashtune is that you have to pull and mail the ecu. Im sure their tune is solid but I like having the option of email support.
I might have missed it, but why exactly are you going with the full exhaust as opposed to just a slip on?
If it's not for performance than I don't understand. If you want performance then you need a tune to account for the new air to fuel ratios. No, changing the idle does not affect your air to fuel.
I laid my bike and my stock exhaust is all scratched up so I'm using this excuse to get an aftermarket exhaust.
I have seen slip on exhaust on Ninja 300 in person, and man it looked bad.
The pipe where exhaust connect looked so skinny, and aftermarket exhaust has nothing to cover up, it expose this skinny pipe tied on to the slip on.
I just don't like how exhaust get skinny all the sudden and leaves all the empty space. Whereas full exhaust's mid pipe tend to be thicker and looks much better.
I don't know how many people would notice, but that's what I noticed immediately for some reason.
Also the weight saving factor and stuff... Tyga Performance and Leo Vince have reasonably priced full exhaust so I thought might as well spend a little extra cash and get a good one instead of buying Murrari or Delkavic slip on. (No offence to Murrari or Delkavic owners)
Tyga and Leo Vince are both good brand and their full exhaust can be bought for a price of Akrapovic or Yoshimura slip ons. (or very close price)
You get a full exhaust because you want full performance, hence you need to include an ECU tune or a bazzaz or Power Commander unit to give you the right fuel/air mixture. If all you want is looks and sound then just get a slip on and save yourself some money.
The idle adjuster opens and closes your throttle bodies to allow more or less fuel/air mixture into your cylinders during idle, that's it. It doesn't adjust the mixture ratio.
Personally, all I ever get is a slip on on my bikes. My riding isn't competitive enough to merit spending hundreds on an in depth tune. And if I do want to get competitive, I'll work up to a bigger bike and invest in tuning it as I progress. The 300, to me, is simply for fun and practicality.
Can anyone tell me if this is any good? I'm a complete beginner when it comes to ECU.
It seems a lot cheaper than PCV or any other ECU or ECU piggyback unit.
A full exhaust will mean that without a flash tune or tune/tuner your bike will run lean. The bike runs lean in stock form and so this will increase temps, backfiring, poor performance, super snappy throttle etc. Full exhaust + tune equals roughly 10-15% power increase which is roughly in line with most other bikes in terms of cost.
You either get the slipon for the sound with no more to spend or go all out with the full exhaust.
I have the Area P tuner and it is great for my riding needs. Also you can get a ton of other slip ons that are full cans. Like you I hate the skinny Mussari? and Danmoto cans. If I got a slip on I would get a Yoshi, Akrapovic, M4, or Leo Vince.
It sure it loud. I've been debating whether to get a baffle for it, wondering if it's damaging my hearing even with ear plugs in. On non-windy days, on the highway the exhaust drowns out the wind noise.
As I said on the first page, I was thinking about ECU Flash like Spacep0d was recommending, so I looked at their website, and looks like they're gonna charge $200 for flash service, $51 for shipping + handling to send it to Canada, and in addition to that, I would have to pay my own shipping to send the stock ECU to them. So it will be like $300 project and I wouldn't be able to run my bike until I get my ECU back, which seems like a big hassle.
Unless you know some other company that can do it for cheap?
Also the Booster Plug, if that really works that seems like the cheapest option..
I guess the most attractive part about Booster Plug is its price.
I'm not particularly wealthy or anything, so I'm on budget. If Booster Plug does the job just fine, I do not want to be spending money on Power Commander V or even Area P.
Looks like its popular with BMW motorcycle forum guys, but I can't find anyone who has done it was Ninja 300.
Looking at the booster plug, it richens the bike up by tricking sensors to think the bikes in a colder climate then what it really is. It claims many things and might be worth looking at.
FlashTune is the waty to go for the Ninja 300. You can get a kit for $400 and do this yourself with a little training, or I can re-flash the ECU for you using the FlashTune bench kit and set it up the way you want. $200 and no shipping charge in the US or Canada, FlashTune charges me for a license for each ECU but once I flash it, I can make changes as many times as you want, for example if you decide on a different exhaust, or running race gas, whatever the case. This bike is very consistent and responds well, especially smooths out the off-on throttle action (too lean stock in this area, making it jerky). I can also enable a quick shifter and set up the programming for it through the ECU, it connects to the diagnostic port in the back.
I know money is key for you. But you can save money till you get what you need. It costs $ to be safe as i have learned.. you should really look into the bazazz fi-qs-tc unit. No need to send it out you can change everything on your own. Not to mention the traction control can really save your life! As i found last weekend coming into a corner full of pea gravel. It cuts the motor so quick you dont even know it happened..did i mention quick shirft! And there is a dealer on here who can save you $...sorry i cant remember his name. If your serious about it start a thread on ot im sure he will chime in,or look at my posts to find him
I am still undecided but I might actually get one and report back since nobody has purchased one for ninja 300.
The reviews have been positive for other motorcycles so I'm sure it's not a trash.
If it actually does work on Ninja 300 just like other motorcycles, it would be a good money saver.
@Timpo you should not waste your hard earned money for crap like a Booster Plug, it's not worth it.
Those things are just resistor which, if you really want to have it, could do by yourself and then for a few cents only.
Please read from a german BMW forum, one guy did all tests about it and here's the translation from one answer: "Had such a booster Plug at the 650GS from my ex. As long as it was not too hot outside, the engine was quite passable. Every time at high outdoor temp it became choppy and the bike stalled at the lights very easy. We thought about the throttle-tps and the intake air temperature as the problem. Also the engine control unit. But before we'd spend a lot of money a friend did read the fault memory. There was something in it as "signal overload control unit". So it's no wonder that the ecu because of a "downward corrected" signal from the air temperature sensor to the injection went down and the lambda probe within seconds thereafter always will report an "implausible lambda value". So we took the Booster plug out and all was well again."
Link: http://www.f800-forum.de/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=10329
It should be said that it could be important to know and understand the german language since nearly every question is already answered in german forums.
Hmm that's interesting to know.
My second option is Area P, just because of its price and no dyno tune needed. PCV would be my very last option.
Just a question though...will PCV ever fail? To be fair, maybe this particular bike had a bad Booster Plug? Because the reviews seem to be generally positive.
IMHO the booster plug would be a waste of money. All it does is trick the bike into thinking intake air is colder than it really is, which causes the ECU to adjust by adding a small amount of fuel. You can do the same thing with a $.50 resistor, as the ebay ad states. The difference is a resistor mimics a set air temperature and the booster plug has variable resistance to adjust based on actual air temp. Either way any gains would be small (think about what your bike performance feels like in winter vs summer riding). 15 yrs ago I tried the $.50 resistor method on my 2001 Camaro Z28, wasn't a noticeable difference. It may be more noticeable on a bike but still not worth the money for the booster plug. Better off spending a little more money for a flash tune, or get a PCV/Bazzaz. You'll get way more for your money.
What's the difference between the resister mimicing different temp (Booster Plug) than other ECU piggy back unit?
I don't care how the system adjust the fuel setting, as long as it works, it's fine by me.
It's just that other bikes (Ducati, BMW, Triumph, etc) are generally having no problem (according to YouTube and other forums), I don't see why Ninja 300 would.
If Booster Plug us one of those eBay gimmick that does absolutely NOTHING, then I would be reluctant to buy one...but the reason why I'm interested in is because it seems like it's actually working for other bikes.
hmm so many things to think about! I guess the reason why I'm seriously interested in Booster Plug is that people have been using it on motorcycles but Ninja 300 and generally working fine.
No I don't know too much about tuning. For me, tuning air/fuel mixture and all that stuff seem complicated and tedious, I would rather bolt on something and call it a day. I want something pre-tuned or tune by itself as I ride.
OK so being an amateur when it comes to ECU, I'm confused about Bazzaz and power commander. Why so they need to be put on dyno and make custom fuel mapping for each bike? Cant I just bolt on and the ECU will automatically make an adjustment to my new exhaust?
I run a Bazzaz.. I run Bazzaz stock mapping and that is really good right out of the box. That will get you 95% there as far as HP, throttle response, etc. A dyno tune will take that last 5% and get you a couple extra ponies or more depending on how far you take it. Mostly it covers atmosphere, fuel/type, mapping fuel vs. throttle position etc.
The stock map that comes with the bazzaz is fine for street and for the track probably mid pack or B group.
Bazzaz also makes an auto-tune that works very well that you can run and is the same price as a dyno roughly.
Oh, also. the ZFI will not automatically adjust. There is a set bunch of numbers in there. Those numbers are based on a full exhaust, 91 oct. and SoCal weather... But like I said, it will get you 95% there.
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