Help!! Stripped Studs While Swapping Sprocket - Kawasaki Ninja 300 Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
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Help!! Stripped Studs While Swapping Sprocket

Hey guys,

I am pretty pissed off at this. I'm working on a complete rebuild (rebuild thread may be posted soon, see other posts for some details), and just when I'm almost finished, I decide to swap the rear sprocket for 40T. When I was test riding it through the neighborhood and making adjustments, I noticed first gear is useless, figured this would be a worthwhile upgrade. 8k RPM at 10mph is just annoying.

Anyway.. on to the actual point.. I go to torque down to the 44 ftlb spec. I use an impact drill to get it started, but not too much pressure, just enough to get the nut down the stud. Using a digital torque wrench (just bought it and will return it because it's useless), it showed that I got to 37 ftlb right before the nut started spinning relatively loosely. Backed it off, threads were completely smashed and ripped from the stud. Backed off another one that I tightened to about 37 lb on the opposite side, stud looked fine but threads on the nut were flattened. That's only two! I think that I compromised some other nuts. I went ahead and put some offers on salvage parts on eBay, but this just pisses me off.

My main question here is, should I go to about 35 lb and use blue loctite? I can't be the only one who's had this issue so far! I checked some R1/R6 forums and they were talking about the manual saying 76 lbs. They said they talked to dealership and were told 35ish lbs. Thats why I'm asking here, surely someone's experienced this on the Ninja or knows how to do this without crushing threads.

This is the one thing I've become desperate on. Everything else has had it's frustrating moments, but not like this where something broke and will continue to break. I'm desperate for help here. Thanks in advance for any input!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 08:29 AM
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The first thing I'd say is, don't torque anything down with an impact wrench. It's stripped threads waiting to happen. You don't know what peak torque you put through the threads; it may have been well in excess of the stud's rating.

However, It happens. I haven't had this on my 300 but I've experienced it on another bike.

You'll just have to replace the studs and do it again. Torque them down with a conventional torque wrench. The studs should be good for 44 ft.lbs.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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The first thing I'd say is, don't torque anything down with an impact wrench. It's stripped threads waiting to happen. You don't know what peak torque you put through the threads; it may have been well in excess of the stud's rating.

However, It happens. I haven't had this on my 300 but I've experienced it on another bike.

You'll just have to replace the studs and do it again. Torque them down with a conventional torque wrench. The studs should be good for 44 ft.lbs.
I'm going to use my regular/hammer drill to gently put them back on. As far as taking them off though, do you think the impact is fine?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 06:24 PM
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The first thing I'd say is, don't torque anything down with an impact wrench. It's stripped threads waiting to happen. You don't know what peak torque you put through the threads; it may have been well in excess of the stud's rating.

However, It happens. I haven't had this on my 300 but I've experienced it on another bike.

You'll just have to replace the studs and do it again. Torque them down with a conventional torque wrench. The studs should be good for 44 ft.lbs.
I'm going to use my regular/hammer drill to gently put them back on. As far as taking them off though, do you think the impact is fine?
I took mine off with an impact driver when I changed the brake rotor last summer. It didn't seem to have any Ill effects.

It's possible that some fasteners are on way tight from the factory, and that can cause the threads to fail when they're retorqued.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 07:15 PM
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I'm going to use my regular/hammer drill to gently put them back on. As far as taking them off though, do you think the impact is fine?
Just use your hand. Snug them down the use a good torque wrench and put them at. Spec.

There is almost no need to use power tools to put something ON.

Tighten them in a star pattern like you would a car tire.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
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The first thing I'd say is, don't torque anything down with an impact wrench. It's stripped threads waiting to happen. You don't know what peak torque you put through the threads; it may have been well in excess of the stud's rating.

However, It happens. I haven't had this on my 300 but I've experienced it on another bike.

You'll just have to replace the studs and do it again. Torque them down with a conventional torque wrench. The studs should be good for 44 ft.lbs.
I'm going to use my regular/hammer drill to gently put them back on. As far as taking them off though, do you think the impact is fine?
I took mine off with an impact driver when I changed the brake rotor last summer. It didn't seem to have any Ill effects.

It's possible that some fasteners are on way tight from the factory, and that can cause the threads to fail when they're retorqued.
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Originally Posted by berguy View Post
I'm going to use my regular/hammer drill to gently put them back on. As far as taking them off though, do you think the impact is fine?
Just use your hand. Snug them down the use a good torque wrench and put them at. Spec.

There is almost no need to use power tools to put something ON.

Tighten them in a star pattern like you would a car tire.
Thanks guys. I'm just lazy, ha. After rebuilding the thing, I can say that the power tools are nice to have as long as they're used with care. Granted, I just got my new driver and hammer drill in, and I did do most of the rebuild by hand. It really is tiring, these tools are huge helps. My mistake may have been carelessly using the impact driver, though I thought it was fairly gentle. Also possible is the crap torque wrench is off.

Anyway, how does one put new studs in? I managed to get the bad ones off by JB welding a nut on them and coming back 10 hours later to use the impact driver and get it off. Super easy. Do I just thread the ruined studs by hand, put the sprocket on, and then tighten to 44lbs? Or do I need to somehow tighten the studs down first?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 09:37 AM
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I would go finger tight on the studs.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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I would go finger tight on the studs.
I figured as much. I think when I torque down they will seat themselves.

Do you have an idea as to how to remove studs from another unit? I just received my salvage parts, but I need to remove these studs without damaging them!

The last time that I did this on my wheel, I used JB weld on the damaged studs. I don't want to mess up the new ones when transferring. Any ideas?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-15-2017, 08:39 PM
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Do you have an idea as to how to remove studs from another unit?

The safest way would be to use two nuts; just tighten them against each other, and use the inside nut to remove the stud.

Failing that you can {CAREFULLY} wrap the stud with some cloth or rag and use some vice-grips. BE CAREFUL though, as the threads on the stud will act as knives so they will cut through whatever you wrap the studs with. It's a matter of applying enough pressure as not to slip, but not too much to damage the threads.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-16-2017, 03:22 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by berguy View Post
Do you have an idea as to how to remove studs from another unit?

The safest way would be to use two nuts; just tighten them against each other, and use the inside nut to remove the stud.

Failing that you can {CAREFULLY} wrap the stud with some cloth or rag and use some vice-grips. BE CAREFUL though, as the threads on the stud will act as knives so they will cut through whatever you wrap the studs with. It's a matter of applying enough pressure as not to slip, but not too much to damage the threads.
Thanks!! Worked great.

Now my only concern is that the studs aren't all sticking out evenly. They are torques down to 44 ft lbs, but one of the studs in particular is showing more threads than others. Is this normal? Or concerning?
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