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Help! Bike Dies while Downshifting to a stop.

16K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  Goove 
#1 ·
I bought a 2016 Ninja 300 ABS as my first bike a month and a half ago. I bought the bike with 1 mile and currently have 348 miles on it. On one of my rides during my first 100 miles while downshifting to a stop on a very small downward grade my bike just shut off when going from 2nd to 1st. I coasted about 10- 15 ft to a complete stop, pushed my start button, continued riding. Figured maybe I was not "rev Matching" correctly or something.

Today I went for a ride with a buddy and put about 100 miles on it, all backroads through the mountains on Connecticut. This same dying of the bike when going from 2nd to 1st while downshifting for a complete stop happened 3 times in this ride. It isn't a violent, shake or buck of the bike when it shuts off. To me it seems more like what happens if you put the kickstand down while its in gear. I blip the throttle and work through every gear 9/10 when I stop.

Tip over sensor maybe too.....?!?

I did install an M4 Slip On about a week ago. Maybe not enough back pressure and low idle while stopping causes the shutdown?!?

Would love any input on this while I continue to search the web. Much love and thanks!
 
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#2 ·
Put the stock exhaust back on and see if it still does it.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Yes. See the thread about the engine stall with clutch pull, especially when going down hill. It was widespread in the 2013s and required a major recall with replacement of the ECUs. I owned two, which had it. I then owned a 2014 which did it but only during breakin. My new 2016 did it twice, but only when it was new. I live on a hill and it would die just as I had to come to a stop at the bottom of the hill. It will be the ECU. http://www.kawasakininja300.com/forum/8-ninja-300-general-discussion/928-ninja-300-stall.html If you find it isn't real bad, you might be able to increase the idle slightly to see if that works too, but of course you don't want the bike to idle too fast, just not die.
 
#5 ·
I have almost the same issue with my 2016 Ninja 300 ABS.

To basically guarantee a stall, I have to be:

1. within the first 15 minutes of riding
2. going downhill
3. turning a corner (ie: downshifting and clutch in)

It happens especially with cooler temperatures, namely less than ~25 degrees Celsius. I'm in Australia, so it doesn't even get that cold. Either way, I let the bike warm up for a minute or two whilst I get my gear on, so it is not a case of the engine being cold.

When it stalls, oddly enough (whether restarting by letting out the clutch, or pressing starter button) the problem then doesn't happen again for the rest of the ride.

I've got 2,600 kms on the clock and it has had a first service. Have played with the idle but it makes no difference. Dealer has shrugged it off.

I use only premium fuel and I am quite certain that this is a ECU/fuel management issue just like it was in 2014. They were recalled then and should be recalled now.
 
#6 ·
I guess if mine did this and it was not under warranty, I might try some things, but pretty sure it's a faulty ECU. Kawasaki may even replace it if there are enough people with the problem. I would contact the dealer first, but then contact Kawasaki. If your bike dies, there are times that could be dangerous as you know. A light turns green and your bike is stalled and you get rear ended, or have to pull off the road in a bad spot. That's why the did the recall in the first place. This is not that unusual. They thought they had the fairing gaps squared away too, but in 2014 models (including mine), the gaps were still there. Sorry your having trouble. As you probably know, companies are not very good at owning up to problems that they are well-aware of. They didn't say a word about the wide-spread stalling until someone got rear-ended and they had to work on the fix. It is no fun to have to deal with problems like this. I usually give it a try or two, then just trade the bike in on something else if I don't get it fixed. Unfortunately, that's not all that uncommon. I traded my CB300F in on my Ninja a few months ago...same exact thing with Honda. People started reporting engine failures. Several of them. Honda said nothing, until they finally issued a recall for ALL the CBR300Rs and CB300Fs after more than a year of the time the reports started coming in. That recall is still underway and is a huge one involving bearings and crankshafts. Problems generally hit the new models the most. Of course if there are quirks that aren't dangerous, those often never get resolved. That's how business works.
 
#7 ·
Run the bike on the sidestand for 5-10 minutes and then check the idle. If its down around 1100 or lower it needs to be turned up. 1400 or so will do it. If the idle is set too low the bike will die when the clutch is pulled in. Standard problem with small displacement engines. I had the same problem on a bike with 170 miles on the odo and adjusting the idle up fixed it.
 
#8 ·
I definitely agree that fiddling with the idle speed is a first step, but as I said, I did this and in fact the dealer did it too. It made no difference. As a result if it making no difference, I set it back to around 1280/1300.

It's frustrating, however, I won't be getting rid of my Ninja just because of it. As it is so predictable, in that it happens early in the trip, once only, and on a quiet bit of road, I'm almost used to it!!

In fact, almost as a matter of habit now, I give it some extra revs with the clutch pulled in and "coast" around the corner instead at no less than 2500 to 3000 RPM. Not good riding, but arguably no worse than doing it the proper way and then having to pop the clutch to get the motor started again in 2nd or 3rd.

It is frustrating and I can see how it would put some people off the bike, especially learners starting out (which I'm not). As said, it could potentially also lead to some dangerous situations. I'm lucky in that I live out of the city and by the time I hit the main streets proper, my issue with the bike for the day is resolved and the bike is nice and warm and runs perfectly. It's just a bit poor that this issue is now apparently re-emerging, some two or three years after Kawasaki already had notice of it and supposedly fixed it. How hard can it be to get this right?! I accept (for now) that it might be just some defect in my bike, but my dealer says no and yet now there's two of us on here complaining about it.

I am very interested to see, over the next few months, how many other 2016 N300 owners also come out of the woodwork with this problem, whether on this forum or otherwise. I've reviewed the sticky posts from back in 2014 and this is, at face value, exactly the same issue. Back then there was a flood of complaints.
 
#10 ·
Thank you all for the responses. I couldn't find that other thread but did manage to find some older stuff thus leading me to the 2013 Recall due to the ECU. My plan is to contact my dealer and let them know about it. Im halfway to the 600 mile break in service so maybe they will have me wait though I might demand not to. It had stalled before with the stock exhaust on so I am going to assume it is the ECU issue. This video sold me on it.

While it may be something else, I am almost positive its this. I am not going to mess with the idle or anything. I dont think its crazy dangerous even thought I am a new rider. It literally only happens when coming to a stop. Difference to the other people is it will happen even late in the ride.

Again, thank you all.
 
#11 ·
Yep that's it. Sometimes you can catch it and compression start the bike before it comes to a full stop, other times it starts right back up, but sometimes, it takes a few tries to get the bike going again. No need to try and rediscover the wheel. It is the ECU. Good luck.
 
#12 ·
**UPDATE**

Bike has been at the dealer for about 3 weeks now. The mechanic was able to recreate the stall on command for the most part. Kawasaki told them they needed to put the original exhaust back on the bike and see if they could still get the bike to stall. *Eyes roll* So last week I brought them my original exhaust. It had been a week and a half so I decided to give them a ring today. I was told that the mechanic was able to stall it with the original exhaust on it, but he disconnected the charcoal filter??? and he couldnt get it to stall.

The little bit of info I found for the charcoal filter was the Charcoal Canister........They said I might be able to be riding it out on Saturday without the filter. So now my question is what purpose does this serve? In the state I live in we never have to get our bike inspected or have an emissions test done.
 
#13 ·
Thank you for the update as this will help others in the future.Please keep us updated.
 
#14 ·
AFAIK the charcoal can is for EVAP (evaporative emission control [or something like]) so that gasoline vapours don't escape out the tank vent. The vapours are collected in the can and then at certain points are 'purged' and those trapped vapours pushed into the fuel system where they make it to the engine and are burned.
Most cars have an EVAP system, which is why overfilling the tank can lead to 'check engine' lights (liquid fuel gets into can and mucks up system). Some models of the Ninja come from the factory without EVAP. My Ninja doesn't have an EVAP on her because in Canada they are not required on motorcycles. I would expect any bike sold in California would have EVAP installed (damn hippies..). Exhaust sniffers likely won't even note whether you have one or not, as it isn't an exhaust-type item (like EGR, Cat, etc.) but I do believe some states and European countries require EVAP.
Symptoms you may note with EVAP (properly) removed:
- Gasoline smell due to vapours escaping through the vent
- Slight reduction in perceived fuel mileage as a small fraction of fuel from the tank escapes the tank as vapours instead of being trapped and burned.

I do not see how the EVAP could cause stalling unless the purge valve was stuck open which can cause hard starting and rough idle. The shop having no issue with the can disconnected would only make sense to me if the line was then plugged. I'm certainly not all-knowing so there is a strong possibility someone who knows much more than I do could chime in with more/better information.
 
#15 ·
Thanks @IronWarrior Today while at work I talked to some of my buddies and they thought the same about the "purge valve" once i mentioned the Charcoal Can. My thoughts on some of the issues that could indicate it being open to your notes are weird because other than the stalling while clutch is in when coming to a stop from 2nd to 1st the bike is fine. No rough startup or rough idling -_- Either way I hope to hear from the dealer tomorrow *Sat*. The state I live in does not require the Charcoal Can to be installed on bikes due to us not being hippies in Connecticut. However it was told to me that Mass has some Cali like laws when it comes to vehicles so I am wondering if by proximity that is why I got said version of bike.

I hope to learn more if not get my baby back tomorrow. Of course with the closing update **Fingers Crossed**
 
#16 ·
**UPDATE**

Dealership called this morning. The mechanic stated that he could not recreate the stall after disconnecting the Charcoal Canister. He asked if it has ever been layed over or dropped, I said "No". He then asked me how do I fill the gas tank up? I told him "I pump until it clicks". Told me something along the lines of Kawasaki doesn't really have any ideas on what the issue could be. So I picked the bike up all excited and was told if it happens again to bring it in and they will see what they can do. I asked about the ECU and the mechanic claimed an ECU wouldn't stall like that...?!?! 2013 Much!!! Basically was told to make sure I don't overfill the tank.

So while riding it the 14 miles home from the dealership the bike stalled again when coming to a stop at a red light!?!?!!?!

Needless to say, I am pretty pissed off. They had my bike for almost 4 weeks. So I will be calling the dealership when they open on Tuesday again. Must try my best to not freak out.
 
#17 ·
Keep track of your mileage to see if the dealership is even test driving the bike .
 
#19 ·
**Update**

Dealer had the bike for about a month for the 2nd time got it back Almost a week ago. This time after a not so nice email hinting towards lemon law and what not they were able to get Kawasaki to give them some guidance. Apparently they "adjusted my valves and soaked the canister". When I went to pick it up the head mechanic told me "that I would of told you to ride it more"...I told him that is not the answer, he gave me the keys to the bike and walked me through the back of the shop to my baby. I have put 240 miles on the bike since getting it back and am close to my 600-650 mile range for my first inspection....have not had a single stall!!! I have tried everything to get it to do it, leaning it over, riding up and down hills. I waited to make this post because no one likes multiple extended updates. Needless to say I am happy that they actually decided to do something and not have me go the route of BBB and Lemon Law Arbitrator.

Thank you all for the help again and much love. Hopefully this thread can help someone else who doesnt have the 2013 recall models if they ever run into this issue. Seemed like they had to jump through some hoops before Kawi told them to go ahead and adjust the valves.
 
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