Warm up idle issues
The Warm Up Idle used to climb upto 1.5k rpms earlier and when the engine was warmed up, it used to come down to 1.2k rpms. Now it has stopped doing so by itself. It generally stays at around the 1k - 1.1k rpm mark and doesn't climb up. I have to manually rev it up to 1.5k hold it there for sometime and then leave the throttle when the engine seems warm enough. One factor that I can think about (and I might be wrong in this) is that, this has stopped working since the time we have summers over here in India, and the summars have been pretty brutal. So, not sure if that can be the reason, and if the warm up idle issue would fix itself when the winters set in. Else, if someone knows this issue and knows the fix, please do share, as I am pretty worried
Fuel Motor
So, all of a sudden, the Fuel motor has initializing itself when I switch the Engine kill switch on. It tries to initialize when I try to thumb the starter. The mechanic at the service center says this is normal, and I think it's not.
Please guys, any help and suggestion over the issues would be greatly appreciated.
The fuel pump on the kill switch is normal. The kill switch is part of the fueling circuit so if it's closed when you turn the key, the pump wont prime. Nearly all of my fuel injected bikes would only prime the fuel pump at startup when the kill switch was set to run. As far as the fast idle is concerned, the fast idle only has to operate if the engine's temperatures are below a certain threshold at startup. I can't remember the exact temperature but if you're bike's outside and it's still really hot out, then the bike will just startup in low idle as the temp sensors will already say that the engine is warm enough to run without having to up the idle speed. You should think of the initial fast idle as more of a cold start idle and it's not something that actually has to occur if the bike is warm enough already. Don't feel pressured to manually rev the bike 100 rpm more to keep it running. If the engine wasn't warm enough to idle at low idle, the bike would almost immediately die while idling and small throttle inputs would actually kill the engine. The fact that you were able to twist the throttle the tiny amount needed to get the extra 100 rpms means that the bike was idling fine.
@csajal, you might set the idle rpm to (exactly) 1,300 rpm since it looks like that the Ninja is quiet sensitive about that in the cold-start.
My bike here in the LoS where the temperature normally is around or many times above 40 degrees C always idles at 2,000 to 2,200 rpm after the cold-start and within 3 to 4 minutes after warming up (I let her idle at that time) returns to the normal rpm.
About the fuel-pump its all about what FreelancerMG already said.
Good luck.
Thanks @Yoermane and @FreelancerMG for your suggestions. It really helps a lot. I'll wait for the temperatures to go down a bit more and see what happens.
Another BIG issue that I am facing that I forgot to mention is that the clutch is really hard on my Ninja 300. The big has WoodCraft clipons and the I was told that the regular Ninja 300 Clutch wire is not sufficient for the length post the WoodCraft clip-ons, so it has a clutch wire from a different motorcycle (100 cc Bajaj Platina motorcycle). The mechanic at the service center told me that the clutch is hard because of the wrong wire. However, after discussing with some other folks, I was told that there might be issue with the clutch altogether as the pressure plates or the springs need to be seen.
Just to make sure the clutch free play is set right. My clutch is set right and 2nd gear is still a little clunky unless I pre-load the shifter. Then it is very smooth. Try that if you don't already pre-load the clutch.
I also have the same issue. Last time when I cleant the throttle body the Warm up idle was back to normal. This time however when the same issue started I got the cleaning at the service centre but that didnt fix the issue. I will be cleaning the throttle body this weekend if nothing else comes up. may even do a video on it. Lets see.
You listed 2 "issues" that were completely normal operation for the machine and one problem that I wasn't clear on what your issue was.
When you say your clutch was "hard", do you mean that the lever was hard to pull, or that there was some resistance in the shifter or a noise coming from the clutch area or what? Changing the clutch cable should have no effect on the operation providing everything was adjusted properly (correct amount of free play at the lever) but there is not enough information in your post to know what issue you are talking about.
What were the other issues you had noticed? I want to know what I might have to look out for in the future.
The throttle body of my bike had carbon built up. Mainly due to Normal Fuel 87 octane. Getting 93 or 97 octane here in Surburbs of Mumbai is difficult and hence had to clean the throttle body.
Thank you for your answer. So maybe with your cleaning work something became misadjusted and I would think the first and best thing would be to check the adjustment of the TPS. But be cautious with that and when you're not absolutely sure how and what to do, it's the best to go to Kwaki for that. Good luck.
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